Your veterinarian will be a critical person in your dog's life so it is important for you to choose a veterinary professional you feel comfortable with, while also taking into account such things as convenience and cost. Here are a few tips for finding a veterinarian:
~ Ask people you trust for referrals
~ Contact the American Animal Hospital Associations for recommendations.
~ Ask for a tour of the clinic you're considering
~ Look to see if the clinic is clean and organized
~ Check that the lighting is good and the equipment is up to date
~ Choose a veterinarian you are comfortable with
~ Choose a veterinarian who is willing to answer your questions and who is gentle with your dog
~ The veterinarian's credentials should include graduation from an accredited veterinary school and board certifications
~ The clinic staff should be friendly and attentive
~ The hours, location, and parking should be convenient for you
~ Consider the importance of same-day appointments and walk-ins
~ Some emergency services should be available
~ The office should be able to handle serious medical problems requiring overnight hospitalization
~ There should be and attendant on duty during the night and when the hospital is closed
~ Dogs and cats should be kept in separate areas
~ The fees should fit your budget
~ Ask if the clinic offers senior citizen, multi-pet, or other discounts
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Dog Years Vs Human Years
People commonly think that each year of a dog's life is equal to 7 human years. If this were true, it would mean that a 1-year-old dog, who is able to reproduce, is the equivalent of a 7 year old child. It would also mean that a 15-year-old dog, which is not an unusual age for a dog, is the equivalent of a 105-year-old person, which is an unusual age for a person.
A more accurate comparison between human and dog years has been devised. A 3-month-old puppy is 5 years old in human years (equivalent to a young child). A 1-year-old dog is a teenager of 15, and a 2-year-old is 24. After that, aging slows and 4 human years are added for every dog year. At 3 a dog is 38, at 5 he is 36, at 10 he is 56, and at 15 he is 76. Sources differ on the exact age equivalents in the later years, but a dog who reaches 20 is to be 91 to 96 in human years.
A more accurate comparison between human and dog years has been devised. A 3-month-old puppy is 5 years old in human years (equivalent to a young child). A 1-year-old dog is a teenager of 15, and a 2-year-old is 24. After that, aging slows and 4 human years are added for every dog year. At 3 a dog is 38, at 5 he is 36, at 10 he is 56, and at 15 he is 76. Sources differ on the exact age equivalents in the later years, but a dog who reaches 20 is to be 91 to 96 in human years.
Zoomies or Puppy Fits
Whatever you call it zoomies or going on a tear, if you have a puppy you know what it is. Puppies from about three to six months of age tend to have sudden bursts of high energy. Without warning, they zoom around the house or yard as if they've gone looney. In this wild mood, they may nip at people as they dash by or grab something they shouldn't and run off with it, inviting a chase. Zoomies usually last five or ten minutes and occur most often during the evening when puppies need to release excess energy before settling down to sleep. These energy bursts are a normal part of puppyhood, so you needn't try to stop them.
~ Two puppies the same age may zoom around together and often an adult dog can be persuaded to join in, but if your puppy is your only dog, you might try joining in the fun yourself. You can turn zoomies into a game that you can steer in a positive direction.
~ To keep your puppy from grabbing objects or people while he zooms around, encourage him to carry one of his own toys. Wave or wiggle the toy to get your puppy's attention, then either hand it off to him as he dashes by or toss it into his path so he cansnatch it from the flor. Say "take it" or "get it" when you offer or throw the toy so your puppy will know he has your permission to grab it.
~ If you hand your puppy a toy, make sure you offer something large enough so his teeth won't collide with your fingers. A thick, knotted rope or a big floppy toy works well. If you'd rather your dog not grab things out of your hand, even in play, throw the toy instead. This is also a good strategy when playing with a dog who uses his teeth too roughly.
~ Zoomies are fun and good exercise for puppies, who will grow out of this bursting-with-energy stage within a few months on his own. Young adult dogs have these energy bursts too, but less frequently than pups.
~ Just guide your puppy during zoomies and enjoy the hilarity while it lasts. The world can bea far too serious place -- let your puppy help you cultivate the playful side of your own behavior.
~ Two puppies the same age may zoom around together and often an adult dog can be persuaded to join in, but if your puppy is your only dog, you might try joining in the fun yourself. You can turn zoomies into a game that you can steer in a positive direction.
~ To keep your puppy from grabbing objects or people while he zooms around, encourage him to carry one of his own toys. Wave or wiggle the toy to get your puppy's attention, then either hand it off to him as he dashes by or toss it into his path so he cansnatch it from the flor. Say "take it" or "get it" when you offer or throw the toy so your puppy will know he has your permission to grab it.
~ If you hand your puppy a toy, make sure you offer something large enough so his teeth won't collide with your fingers. A thick, knotted rope or a big floppy toy works well. If you'd rather your dog not grab things out of your hand, even in play, throw the toy instead. This is also a good strategy when playing with a dog who uses his teeth too roughly.
~ Zoomies are fun and good exercise for puppies, who will grow out of this bursting-with-energy stage within a few months on his own. Young adult dogs have these energy bursts too, but less frequently than pups.
~ Just guide your puppy during zoomies and enjoy the hilarity while it lasts. The world can bea far too serious place -- let your puppy help you cultivate the playful side of your own behavior.
Adding a Second Dog to Your Home
Introducing a new dog to your family may be disconcerting to your current dog. If he is used to having you all to himself, he may be jealous of the attention you pay to the new dog. There are some things you can do to ease the social transition for both of them:
~ When you do something fun with one dog, make sure the other gets something good too.
~ Teach your dogs to take turns by saying each dog's name before you hand him a treat or a toy.
~ If either dog gets too rowdy or pushy with the other or tries to guard you as private property, give him a time-out alone for five to ten minutes.
~ When you're not home to supervise, keep the dogs separated until their relationship is stable.
~ When you do something fun with one dog, make sure the other gets something good too.
~ Teach your dogs to take turns by saying each dog's name before you hand him a treat or a toy.
~ If either dog gets too rowdy or pushy with the other or tries to guard you as private property, give him a time-out alone for five to ten minutes.
~ When you're not home to supervise, keep the dogs separated until their relationship is stable.
Aggression
Some dogs are aggressive towards strangers, even when owners welcome the people as guests. This reaction is often especially strong in dogs whose owners receive few visitors.
Small children are a fairly common trigger for aggression in dogs who haven't been raised around them. Their high-pitched voices and jerky movements are startlingly similar to those of prey animals, so it's not surprising that dogs sometimes react by chasing or nipping children. Young children's faces are at the same level as most dogs', increasing the danger of serious bites to the head.
With positive training methods many dogs can be retrained to be more relaxed and polite around strangers or children, but it takes skill and experience owners often don't possess. If your dog is nervous and unfriendly around people, it may be prudent to enlist help from a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
If your dog is behaving in any of the following ways, have your veterinarian examine him to detect health problems that might be making him irritable or self-protective:
~ Snapping at people, especially children
~ Stiffening and growling or snapping when approached or handled
~ Biting in defense of food, bed, or other resources
~ Attacking other dogs
If there are no apparent medical cause for your dog's aggression, ask your veterinarian to recommend an experienced trainer or behaviorist who can help you solve the problem.
Small children are a fairly common trigger for aggression in dogs who haven't been raised around them. Their high-pitched voices and jerky movements are startlingly similar to those of prey animals, so it's not surprising that dogs sometimes react by chasing or nipping children. Young children's faces are at the same level as most dogs', increasing the danger of serious bites to the head.
With positive training methods many dogs can be retrained to be more relaxed and polite around strangers or children, but it takes skill and experience owners often don't possess. If your dog is nervous and unfriendly around people, it may be prudent to enlist help from a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
If your dog is behaving in any of the following ways, have your veterinarian examine him to detect health problems that might be making him irritable or self-protective:
~ Snapping at people, especially children
~ Stiffening and growling or snapping when approached or handled
~ Biting in defense of food, bed, or other resources
~ Attacking other dogs
If there are no apparent medical cause for your dog's aggression, ask your veterinarian to recommend an experienced trainer or behaviorist who can help you solve the problem.
Removing Ticks
Ticks are always looking for a free ride, especially during warm-weather months. This common parasite, which is actually a type of bloodsucking mite, prefers wooded, grassy, and damp areas but can be found just about anywhere. Always check dogs carefully after they have been outdoors, especially if they've romped through grassy fields, meadows, or woods.
If you find a tick on your dog, comb him with a flea comb or other fine-toothed comb to remove any others that may still be loose. It is helpful to spray dogs with a tick insecticide prior to combing. Remove any embedded, feeding ticks as soon as possible to reduce the risk of disease transmission.
To remove embedded ticks, use tweezers to grab the tick as close to the head as possible, and gently pull it out, head and all. An alcohol swab rubbed around the tick may help loosen it's grip. After removal, dab the affected area of the dog's skin with an antibiotic ointment or topical anasthetic. Place the tick in a jar of rubbing alcohol or insecticide to kill it. Don't throw a live tick in the toilet or trash because it might crawl back out. Never try to remove a tick with a match, cigarette lighter, or other lit object. This method does not work and could burn your dog.
Commercial tick removal kits are also available at pet supply stores. They offer tweezers, magnifying glasses, antiseptic, information about Lyme disease, and bags for storage of the tick following removal.
If you find a tick on your dog, comb him with a flea comb or other fine-toothed comb to remove any others that may still be loose. It is helpful to spray dogs with a tick insecticide prior to combing. Remove any embedded, feeding ticks as soon as possible to reduce the risk of disease transmission.
To remove embedded ticks, use tweezers to grab the tick as close to the head as possible, and gently pull it out, head and all. An alcohol swab rubbed around the tick may help loosen it's grip. After removal, dab the affected area of the dog's skin with an antibiotic ointment or topical anasthetic. Place the tick in a jar of rubbing alcohol or insecticide to kill it. Don't throw a live tick in the toilet or trash because it might crawl back out. Never try to remove a tick with a match, cigarette lighter, or other lit object. This method does not work and could burn your dog.
Commercial tick removal kits are also available at pet supply stores. They offer tweezers, magnifying glasses, antiseptic, information about Lyme disease, and bags for storage of the tick following removal.
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Fighting Fleas in Your Home
If you've seen fleas on your dog, chances are there are more in your house. To help eradicate fleas in the home and yard, try these tips:
~ Eliminate fleas on your dog through grooming and medical treatment
~ Vacuum at least once a week. Be especially thorough in areas and rooms that your dog frequents. Vacuum upholstery, area rugs, and in crevices, cracks, and baseboards. If possible, use a vacuum cleaner with a beater bar, a metal cylinder with thick bristles that combs the carpet and can suck up fleas, their larvae, and their eggs. Remove the vacuum bag after each use, seal it, and throw it in an outdoor garbage container.
~ Wash your dog's bedding weekly. If your dog sleeps on a bed that is difficult to wash, keep the bed covered with a sheet or blanket and wash that once a week. Roll the sheet or blanket up as you remove it, so fleas and eggs are contained. Regularly wash your dog's collar and plush toys.
~ Keep floors free of clutter. Don't give fleas places to hide from your attempts to get rid of them.
~ Keep some rooms off limits to your dog to reduce problem areas.
~ Treat severe infestations with flea control products. If your house is severely infested with fleas, you may need to apply a spray or powder directly to carpets, rugs, and upholstered items. Ask your veterinarian about the best and safest products to use. In severe cases, you may need to call a professional exterminator.
~ For nontoxic flea control in the home, use diatomaceous earth. This natural product tears up a flea's exoskeleton and absorbs its body fluids, causing it to dehydrate and die. Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled on floors and furniture and swept into cracks and crevices. Be sure to use food (or garden) grade and not pool grade. Pool grade diatomaceous earth is treated with chemicals and should not be used for pest control.
~ Rid your yard of fleas. Concentrate mostly on shady areas because fleas don't like sunlight. Remove wet leaves, grass clippings, and other moist vegetation, which is where fleas live. Spray your yard with a commercial insecticide. If you prefer a more natural route, you can release nematodes into your yard. Menatodes are microscopic worms that kill flea larvae. They are available at most pet and garden supply stores.
~ Eliminate fleas on your dog through grooming and medical treatment
~ Vacuum at least once a week. Be especially thorough in areas and rooms that your dog frequents. Vacuum upholstery, area rugs, and in crevices, cracks, and baseboards. If possible, use a vacuum cleaner with a beater bar, a metal cylinder with thick bristles that combs the carpet and can suck up fleas, their larvae, and their eggs. Remove the vacuum bag after each use, seal it, and throw it in an outdoor garbage container.
~ Wash your dog's bedding weekly. If your dog sleeps on a bed that is difficult to wash, keep the bed covered with a sheet or blanket and wash that once a week. Roll the sheet or blanket up as you remove it, so fleas and eggs are contained. Regularly wash your dog's collar and plush toys.
~ Keep floors free of clutter. Don't give fleas places to hide from your attempts to get rid of them.
~ Keep some rooms off limits to your dog to reduce problem areas.
~ Treat severe infestations with flea control products. If your house is severely infested with fleas, you may need to apply a spray or powder directly to carpets, rugs, and upholstered items. Ask your veterinarian about the best and safest products to use. In severe cases, you may need to call a professional exterminator.
~ For nontoxic flea control in the home, use diatomaceous earth. This natural product tears up a flea's exoskeleton and absorbs its body fluids, causing it to dehydrate and die. Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled on floors and furniture and swept into cracks and crevices. Be sure to use food (or garden) grade and not pool grade. Pool grade diatomaceous earth is treated with chemicals and should not be used for pest control.
~ Rid your yard of fleas. Concentrate mostly on shady areas because fleas don't like sunlight. Remove wet leaves, grass clippings, and other moist vegetation, which is where fleas live. Spray your yard with a commercial insecticide. If you prefer a more natural route, you can release nematodes into your yard. Menatodes are microscopic worms that kill flea larvae. They are available at most pet and garden supply stores.
Beyond Tomato Juice - Deskunking Your Dog
When it comes to home remedies for removing skunk odor from dogs, professional groomers have seen it all, from the ever popular tomato juice and its many variations like spaghetti sauce or ketchup to lemon juice, mayonaise, vinegar, and mouthwash. You name it; groomers have seen an unfortunate dog smeared with it. While the acidic content of some of these cure-alls does help wash away the stench by breaking it down the oily skunk spray, none of them really works all that well.
Nowadays there are commercial products available from groomers, pet supply stores, and vets that do a far better job. Some are detergent-based shampoo products while others are sponge-on enzymatic cleaners that actually digest the odor-causing bacteria. They come in liquid or powder form and are used at the grooming salon prior to a deodorizing bath. Dogs are usually soaked with one of these products for at least 15 minutes before being washed. If your dog was sprayed in his mouth, the smell willl cling to the mucous membranes of the gums and tongue. Groomers spray the mouth with doggy breath spray to help alleviate this problem.
If you don't have any commercial deskunking products on hand, don't despair. Try this home remedy developed by chemists to treat the problem:
~ 1 Quart 3 Percent Hydrogen Peroxide
~ 1/4 Cup Baking Soda
~ 1 Teaspoon Liquid Dish Detergent
First, gently flush out your dog's eyes with plain water. When a dog takes a direct hit in the face, skunk spray stings and burns the eyes. Next, rub the solution into the dog's coat, penetrating all the way to the skin and taking care not to get it in his eyes. Thoroughly rinse the dog with lukewarm tap water, and then discard any leftover solution. (Warning: This product cannot be made up ahead of time nor should you store any unused portion for future use. Because it produces oxygen, it is combustible and will explode if left in a closed container.) Follow up with a good shampoo to make the dog your welcome housemate once again.
Nowadays there are commercial products available from groomers, pet supply stores, and vets that do a far better job. Some are detergent-based shampoo products while others are sponge-on enzymatic cleaners that actually digest the odor-causing bacteria. They come in liquid or powder form and are used at the grooming salon prior to a deodorizing bath. Dogs are usually soaked with one of these products for at least 15 minutes before being washed. If your dog was sprayed in his mouth, the smell willl cling to the mucous membranes of the gums and tongue. Groomers spray the mouth with doggy breath spray to help alleviate this problem.
If you don't have any commercial deskunking products on hand, don't despair. Try this home remedy developed by chemists to treat the problem:
~ 1 Quart 3 Percent Hydrogen Peroxide
~ 1/4 Cup Baking Soda
~ 1 Teaspoon Liquid Dish Detergent
First, gently flush out your dog's eyes with plain water. When a dog takes a direct hit in the face, skunk spray stings and burns the eyes. Next, rub the solution into the dog's coat, penetrating all the way to the skin and taking care not to get it in his eyes. Thoroughly rinse the dog with lukewarm tap water, and then discard any leftover solution. (Warning: This product cannot be made up ahead of time nor should you store any unused portion for future use. Because it produces oxygen, it is combustible and will explode if left in a closed container.) Follow up with a good shampoo to make the dog your welcome housemate once again.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Brachycephalic Dogs and Heat
Editor's Note: I just got a brand new baby yesterday. She is an adorable peke-a-poo and I am totally in love. I have had both shih tzus and pekingese dogs in the past and am aware of the dangers of dogs with "smushed" noses, for lack of a better term. Among these are pugs, boston terriers, pekingese, shih tzus, havanese and others. Here is how to prevent them from encountering any problems...
Brachycephalic dogs (dogs with short noses) such as the pug, bulldog, and Pekingese, are particularly susceptible to high temperatures and heatstroke. Dogs do not perspire through the skin like people do; instead the cool themselves by panting. Short-muzzled dogs have narrowed and abbreviated respiratory tracts. They have a hard time increasing their rate of panting, so they are more likely than other dogs to suffer from respiratory distress in hot weather. While care should be taken with all dogs during hot weather, brachycephalic dogs need extra consideration and should always be kept in a cool location, preferably in an air-conditioned house, during the hottest part of the day. In warm weather they should not be exercised during the day and plenty of water should always be available. They (and all other dogs) should never be left in a hot car, not even for a few minutes.
Brachycephalic dogs (dogs with short noses) such as the pug, bulldog, and Pekingese, are particularly susceptible to high temperatures and heatstroke. Dogs do not perspire through the skin like people do; instead the cool themselves by panting. Short-muzzled dogs have narrowed and abbreviated respiratory tracts. They have a hard time increasing their rate of panting, so they are more likely than other dogs to suffer from respiratory distress in hot weather. While care should be taken with all dogs during hot weather, brachycephalic dogs need extra consideration and should always be kept in a cool location, preferably in an air-conditioned house, during the hottest part of the day. In warm weather they should not be exercised during the day and plenty of water should always be available. They (and all other dogs) should never be left in a hot car, not even for a few minutes.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Signs of Shock
Shock is an acute situation requiring immediate medical attention. It occurs when the cardiovascular system is not properly circulating blood, which can happen following a serious injury or severe illness. Signs of shock in dogs include:
~ Acute onset of fatigue, weakness
~ Decreased body temperature and cold extremities
~ Dilated pupils
~ Lack of responsiveness
~ Light, fluttering heartbeat
~ Pale inner eyelids and pale, grayish gums
~ Rapid, shallow breathing
If you believe your dog is experiencing shock, wrap him in a blanket for warmth, keep his lower body elevated, and keep him quiet. Take him to the closest emergency veterinarian, calling ahead so the staff is prepared for your arrival.
~ Acute onset of fatigue, weakness
~ Decreased body temperature and cold extremities
~ Dilated pupils
~ Lack of responsiveness
~ Light, fluttering heartbeat
~ Pale inner eyelids and pale, grayish gums
~ Rapid, shallow breathing
If you believe your dog is experiencing shock, wrap him in a blanket for warmth, keep his lower body elevated, and keep him quiet. Take him to the closest emergency veterinarian, calling ahead so the staff is prepared for your arrival.
How to Give Your Dog Pills
To keep your dog from spitting out even the best-hidden pills, try this method. Select a time when your dog is relaxed. Get him in a comfortable position on the floor or a table, depending on his size. Place your hand over the bridge of your dog's nose, holding his upper jaw with your fingers fitting behind his canines. Tilt his head upward to a 45 degree angle. With your other hand, gently pull back his lower jaw behind his canines to get him to open his mouth. With the pill in that hand, place it as far back on his tongue as possible, then gently hold his mouth closed and stroke his throat until he swallows. Once he sticks the tip of his tongue out or licks his nose, you'll know the pill has gone down.
Another way is to "hide" the pill in a big glob of peanut butter. This is effective about 90% of the time as dogs love the taste and don't pay attention to what's actually in there. Also, Greenies has a new product out called "Pill Pockets" where it looks like a kangaroo's pouch. You stick the pill in the pocket and feed it to the dog as a treat. This is fairly expensive though and you could probably get the same effect by hiding it in other treats that are less expensive. You can order a free sample by visiting www.greenies.com/en_US/Products/DogPillPockets.aspx.
Whichever technique you decide to use, just make absolutely sure that the dog as swallowed it. It's very important that they finish all medications unless otherwise instructed by a qualified veterinarian.
Another way is to "hide" the pill in a big glob of peanut butter. This is effective about 90% of the time as dogs love the taste and don't pay attention to what's actually in there. Also, Greenies has a new product out called "Pill Pockets" where it looks like a kangaroo's pouch. You stick the pill in the pocket and feed it to the dog as a treat. This is fairly expensive though and you could probably get the same effect by hiding it in other treats that are less expensive. You can order a free sample by visiting www.greenies.com/en_US/Products/DogPillPockets.aspx.
Whichever technique you decide to use, just make absolutely sure that the dog as swallowed it. It's very important that they finish all medications unless otherwise instructed by a qualified veterinarian.
Signs of Illness
It's important to your dog's health and well-being to keep a watch out for signs of illnesses. Some of the signals that maybe your dog isn't feeling well are decreased or no appetite, increased thirst and abnormal behavior. So if your dog is normally a "barker" and all of the sudden he doesn't seem interested in barking, that may indicate that he's sick. If your dog experiences any of the following signs of illness, please take him to the veterinarian as soon as possible.
~ Abnormal discharges from body orifices such as the nose, ears, or
genitals
~ Abnormal lumps
~ Changes in behavior
~ Dandruff, loss of hair, open sores, or a ragged or dull coat
~ Excessive head shaking
~ Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth
~ Difficult, abnormal or uncontrolled waste elimination
~ Increased water intake
~ Lack of appetite
~ Limping or difficulty getting up or lying down
~ Noticeable weight gain or loss
~ Scratching, licking, or biting any part of the body
~ Abnormal discharges from body orifices such as the nose, ears, or
genitals
~ Abnormal lumps
~ Changes in behavior
~ Dandruff, loss of hair, open sores, or a ragged or dull coat
~ Excessive head shaking
~ Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth
~ Difficult, abnormal or uncontrolled waste elimination
~ Increased water intake
~ Lack of appetite
~ Limping or difficulty getting up or lying down
~ Noticeable weight gain or loss
~ Scratching, licking, or biting any part of the body
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Signs of Dental Problems
Odor: If your dog's breath smells like the inside of a garbage can, something's wrong. Normal dog breath should smell good.
Lack of Appetite: Dogs with dental problems have trouble eating. They may pick up food and then drop it or stop eating altogether. Check your dog's water dish for bits of food.
Pawing at the Mouth or Drooling Excessively: This can be a sign that the area is painful or that something is stuck inside. Take your dog to the veterinarian.
Lack of Appetite: Dogs with dental problems have trouble eating. They may pick up food and then drop it or stop eating altogether. Check your dog's water dish for bits of food.
Pawing at the Mouth or Drooling Excessively: This can be a sign that the area is painful or that something is stuck inside. Take your dog to the veterinarian.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Top 10 Dog-Friendly Cities
1. Monterey/Carmel, California
2. Cape Cod/Nantucket, Massachusetts
3. Chicago, Illinois
4. Seattle, Washington
5. Key West, Florida
6. Lake Tahoe, California
7. Toronto, Canada
8. New York, New York
9. Washington, D.C.
10. San Fransisco, California
2. Cape Cod/Nantucket, Massachusetts
3. Chicago, Illinois
4. Seattle, Washington
5. Key West, Florida
6. Lake Tahoe, California
7. Toronto, Canada
8. New York, New York
9. Washington, D.C.
10. San Fransisco, California
General Dog Travel Rules
Since summer is here and we're all planning our vacation, here are some general rules to follow if you travel with your pets.
~ Be respectful to others. Not everyone is the dog lover you are. Do not impose.
~ Bring only well-trained, well-socialized dogs when traveling. A vacation is no place for remedial dog training.
~ Use a harness leash; it provides more security.
~ Update your dog's ID tags, license, and vaccinations.
~ Clean up after your dog; bring plenty of plastic bags for this purpose.
~ Bring your dog's own food from home. You may not be able to find it in another city or country and a quick change to new food can bring on digestive upset.
~ Keep your dog's safety first. Do not take him off leash or push him into uncomfortable or frightening situations.
~ Be respectful to others. Not everyone is the dog lover you are. Do not impose.
~ Bring only well-trained, well-socialized dogs when traveling. A vacation is no place for remedial dog training.
~ Use a harness leash; it provides more security.
~ Update your dog's ID tags, license, and vaccinations.
~ Clean up after your dog; bring plenty of plastic bags for this purpose.
~ Bring your dog's own food from home. You may not be able to find it in another city or country and a quick change to new food can bring on digestive upset.
~ Keep your dog's safety first. Do not take him off leash or push him into uncomfortable or frightening situations.
Rules for Avoiding Dog Bites
~ Never approach a strange dog. Never pet a dog who is not accompanied by his owner.
~ Get permission from the owner before petting any dog.
~ Do not approach a dog who is tied up, in a car, or in a fenced yard.
~ Wait for the dog to come to you, rather than going to him.
~ When meeting a dog, hold out your hand with the palm facing down for the dog to sniff.
~ Do not put your face in the dog's face or stare directly into his eyes.
~ Do not pet a dog on his face or head; instead stroke his body gently in the same direction that his hair grows.
~ Do not kiss a dog on the face.
~ Do not squeal, scream, jump, or run excitedly around a dog.
~ Never pull at a dog's ears or tail or poke at his eyes, mouth or nose.
~ Never run from a dog.
~ Do not smile with your teeth showing. They see this as baring your teeth and that is aggressive behavior to a dog.
~ All dogs, no matter how friendly or well-trained can and will bite if they feel threatened or backed into a corner. Always remember this when dealing with unfamiliar dogs.
What to Do if a Dog Threatens You:
~ Stand still, like a tree. Do not run and do not turn your back to the dog.
~ Do not look the dog in his eyes. They see this as agressiveness.
~ Back away from the dog slowly.
~ If the dog moves toward you, command him to go home in a low voice.
~ If a dog attacks you, curl into a ball and use your arms and hands to protect your head and neck. If you have a jacket or backpack, try to maneuver it between you and the dog.
~ Get permission from the owner before petting any dog.
~ Do not approach a dog who is tied up, in a car, or in a fenced yard.
~ Wait for the dog to come to you, rather than going to him.
~ When meeting a dog, hold out your hand with the palm facing down for the dog to sniff.
~ Do not put your face in the dog's face or stare directly into his eyes.
~ Do not pet a dog on his face or head; instead stroke his body gently in the same direction that his hair grows.
~ Do not kiss a dog on the face.
~ Do not squeal, scream, jump, or run excitedly around a dog.
~ Never pull at a dog's ears or tail or poke at his eyes, mouth or nose.
~ Never run from a dog.
~ Do not smile with your teeth showing. They see this as baring your teeth and that is aggressive behavior to a dog.
~ All dogs, no matter how friendly or well-trained can and will bite if they feel threatened or backed into a corner. Always remember this when dealing with unfamiliar dogs.
What to Do if a Dog Threatens You:
~ Stand still, like a tree. Do not run and do not turn your back to the dog.
~ Do not look the dog in his eyes. They see this as agressiveness.
~ Back away from the dog slowly.
~ If the dog moves toward you, command him to go home in a low voice.
~ If a dog attacks you, curl into a ball and use your arms and hands to protect your head and neck. If you have a jacket or backpack, try to maneuver it between you and the dog.
Canine CPR
Should your dog's heart or breathing stop due to injury or illness, would you know what to do? Just as CPR is used to help humans, it can be used to help dogs. Follow this procedure for performing CPR on a dog:
~ Check for a heartbeat by looking at the dog's chest to see if it's moving or by placing your ear against the dog's chest to listen for a heartbeat. A dog's heart is located where the left elbow touches the chest. To determine if the dog is breathing, place your hand in front of his nose. If the dog is unresponsive, move on to the next step.
~ Check that the dog's airway is clear, then pull his tongue forward out of his mouth. (Be careful not to get bitten; even unresponsive dogs may still bite instinctively.) Gently try to bring his head in line with his neck to open the airway.
~ Breathe into the dog's nose and watch for his chest to expand. Give just enough air to cause his chest to rise. Large dogs require more air while small dogs require less. Continue breathing into his nose, giving one breath every three seconds.
~ If the dog's chest does not rise when you breathe, look into his mouth again for any objects that could be blocking the airway. Perform the Heimlich maneuver if necessary by turning the dog upside down with his back against your chest. Use both arms to give five strong, sharp hugs to the abdomen until the object is expelled. If you can see the object, reach in and remove it. Do not begin chest compressions until the airway is clear.
~ To start compressions, turn the dog gently onto his right side. Place the heel of your hand on the chest over the heart. Place the other hand palm down on top. Compress the chest 15 times (about three compressions every two seconds). Press down about 1 inch for medium-sized dogs; press harder for larger animals and more gently for smaller dogs. Be mindful that the dog's ribs could be broken, so don't press too hard. Alternate compressions and breathing: two breaths after every 15 compressions.
~ Continue CPR until the dog has a heartbeat and is breathing regularly. Take the dog to the veterinarian as soon as he is stable. If you perform CPR and determine that it is not helping, get the dog to an emergency animal hospital immediately.
~ Check for a heartbeat by looking at the dog's chest to see if it's moving or by placing your ear against the dog's chest to listen for a heartbeat. A dog's heart is located where the left elbow touches the chest. To determine if the dog is breathing, place your hand in front of his nose. If the dog is unresponsive, move on to the next step.
~ Check that the dog's airway is clear, then pull his tongue forward out of his mouth. (Be careful not to get bitten; even unresponsive dogs may still bite instinctively.) Gently try to bring his head in line with his neck to open the airway.
~ Breathe into the dog's nose and watch for his chest to expand. Give just enough air to cause his chest to rise. Large dogs require more air while small dogs require less. Continue breathing into his nose, giving one breath every three seconds.
~ If the dog's chest does not rise when you breathe, look into his mouth again for any objects that could be blocking the airway. Perform the Heimlich maneuver if necessary by turning the dog upside down with his back against your chest. Use both arms to give five strong, sharp hugs to the abdomen until the object is expelled. If you can see the object, reach in and remove it. Do not begin chest compressions until the airway is clear.
~ To start compressions, turn the dog gently onto his right side. Place the heel of your hand on the chest over the heart. Place the other hand palm down on top. Compress the chest 15 times (about three compressions every two seconds). Press down about 1 inch for medium-sized dogs; press harder for larger animals and more gently for smaller dogs. Be mindful that the dog's ribs could be broken, so don't press too hard. Alternate compressions and breathing: two breaths after every 15 compressions.
~ Continue CPR until the dog has a heartbeat and is breathing regularly. Take the dog to the veterinarian as soon as he is stable. If you perform CPR and determine that it is not helping, get the dog to an emergency animal hospital immediately.
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Thursday, June 18, 2009
Teach Your Dog to Give a Kiss and Receive a Kiss
Teach your dog to give a kiss:
1. Place one hand on your dog's chest and the other on the side of his neck. This will allow you to gently push him away if he gets over-excited.
2. Put your face near your dog's. Say "kisses" and make a series of quiet kissing sounds. Most puppies and many adults will immediately start licking.
3. If yours doesn't lick when he hears the cue smear a dot of cream cheese on your cheek and try again.
4. As soon as your dog licks, praise and offer a treat. This both rewards the dog and stops the licking before he gets carried away.
Teach your dog to receive a kiss...
1. Place one hand on your dog's neck and gently hold his muzzle with the other. This protects from nips while your dog learns to kiss gently.
2. Kiss your dog's cheek or the top of his head then give a treat.
3. When he accepts kisses calmly, try it without restraining him. Keep your hands ready to block in case he moves too fast.
1. Place one hand on your dog's chest and the other on the side of his neck. This will allow you to gently push him away if he gets over-excited.
2. Put your face near your dog's. Say "kisses" and make a series of quiet kissing sounds. Most puppies and many adults will immediately start licking.
3. If yours doesn't lick when he hears the cue smear a dot of cream cheese on your cheek and try again.
4. As soon as your dog licks, praise and offer a treat. This both rewards the dog and stops the licking before he gets carried away.
Teach your dog to receive a kiss...
1. Place one hand on your dog's neck and gently hold his muzzle with the other. This protects from nips while your dog learns to kiss gently.
2. Kiss your dog's cheek or the top of his head then give a treat.
3. When he accepts kisses calmly, try it without restraining him. Keep your hands ready to block in case he moves too fast.
Signs of an Ear Infection
Dog's ears get infected just like ours do. Since they can't tell us when and where they hurt, it's up to us to watch them to make sure they're acting right. Here are some signs of an ear infection that you might want to watch out for...
~ Shaking the head and ears
~ Scratching at one or both ears
~ A bad odor in one or both ears
~ Yellowish, brown, or black discharge from one or both ears
~ Redness or soreness of the ear flap or opening to the ear canal
~ Tilting the head to one side
~ Lethargy or depression
~ Apparent hearing loss
~ Swollen ear flap(s)
~ Stumbling or circling to one side
If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, make an appointment to see your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you notice these after hours, call your vet to see what he recommends you do until you can be seen.
~ Shaking the head and ears
~ Scratching at one or both ears
~ A bad odor in one or both ears
~ Yellowish, brown, or black discharge from one or both ears
~ Redness or soreness of the ear flap or opening to the ear canal
~ Tilting the head to one side
~ Lethargy or depression
~ Apparent hearing loss
~ Swollen ear flap(s)
~ Stumbling or circling to one side
If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, make an appointment to see your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you notice these after hours, call your vet to see what he recommends you do until you can be seen.
Dog Camps
Do you want to take a fun vacation with your dog, improve your skills, explore new activities? Then a dog camp may be just the place for you and your dog. Camp programs run for a weekend, a few days, or a week. Though a dog doesn't need to be highly trained to go to a camp, he should be under your voice control and not be aggressive toward other dogs or people.
You can choose among a wide variety of camps that offer either specific canine activities or a combination of activities such as agility, tracking, lure coursing, carting, herding, and disc catching. Some camps are focused on the serious canine competitor while others are focused on providing a fun experience for dogs and owners. Most camps also offer workshops on such topics as canine nutrition, clicker training, behavior, and holistic dog care.
You can choose among a wide variety of camps that offer either specific canine activities or a combination of activities such as agility, tracking, lure coursing, carting, herding, and disc catching. Some camps are focused on the serious canine competitor while others are focused on providing a fun experience for dogs and owners. Most camps also offer workshops on such topics as canine nutrition, clicker training, behavior, and holistic dog care.
Doggy Tourist Spots
Now that vacation time is upon us and we'll be taking our vacations, I thought I'd give you these dog-friendly places to visit...
Atlanta - Civil War - Self-Guided Tour and Centennial Olympic Park
Chicago - The Lakefront Trail along Lake Michigan
Los Angeles - Griffith Observatory
Orange County - Disneyland (There are on-premises kennels - afterward take them to the almost-mile long Huntington Beach Dog Beach.)
New York - Central Park
Philadelphia - Independence Mall
Seattle - Pike Place Market
San Fransisco - Fisherman's Wharf
Washington, D.C. - The National Mall (Dogs are allowed, leashed, along the entire 2-mile mall. They are not permitted in covered or enclosed areas or on the memorial sites.)
Atlanta - Civil War - Self-Guided Tour and Centennial Olympic Park
Chicago - The Lakefront Trail along Lake Michigan
Los Angeles - Griffith Observatory
Orange County - Disneyland (There are on-premises kennels - afterward take them to the almost-mile long Huntington Beach Dog Beach.)
New York - Central Park
Philadelphia - Independence Mall
Seattle - Pike Place Market
San Fransisco - Fisherman's Wharf
Washington, D.C. - The National Mall (Dogs are allowed, leashed, along the entire 2-mile mall. They are not permitted in covered or enclosed areas or on the memorial sites.)
Signs of a Heatstroke
Dogs are much more susceptible to heat than we are. Every year, many dogs become ill or even die as a result of over-heating. To prevent heatstroke during warm weather, never leave your dog in a car, exercise him during the early morning or evening when temperatures are cooler, and provide plenty of fresh water. If your dog is outside during the day, be sure the doghouse or other shelter is comfortably cool during the hottest part f the day. Signs of a heatstroke include:
~ Anxious expression
~ Collapse
~ High fever (104 degrees F)
~ Loud panting
~ Rapid breathing
~ Rapid heartbeat
~ Refusal to obey commands
~ Staggering
~ Staring
~ Vomiting
~ Warm, dry skin
If you suspect heatstroke, call the closest emergency veterinarian to let the staff know you are on your way. Immediately lower your dog's body temperature by getting him to a cool, ventilated location and applying towels or sponges soaked in cool water to his body or by dousing him with a hose and then wrapping him in a cool, damp blanket. Offer him a small amount of water, but don't force him to drink because he may choke.
~ Anxious expression
~ Collapse
~ High fever (104 degrees F)
~ Loud panting
~ Rapid breathing
~ Rapid heartbeat
~ Refusal to obey commands
~ Staggering
~ Staring
~ Vomiting
~ Warm, dry skin
If you suspect heatstroke, call the closest emergency veterinarian to let the staff know you are on your way. Immediately lower your dog's body temperature by getting him to a cool, ventilated location and applying towels or sponges soaked in cool water to his body or by dousing him with a hose and then wrapping him in a cool, damp blanket. Offer him a small amount of water, but don't force him to drink because he may choke.
Fashioning an Emergency Splint
To quickly make a splint, roll up newspaper, a magazine, or towel, and slip it on top of the injured leg. Use masking tape or another strong tape to hold the splint in place. The splint should extend one joint above the fracture and one joint below or cover the length of the dog's leg.
Be sure that the splint is not so tight that it constricts blood flow. If you have cotton padding available, wrap the leg in the cotton first , then place the splint over it, or wrap an ace bandage around the cotton padding and secure.
Be sure that the splint is not so tight that it constricts blood flow. If you have cotton padding available, wrap the leg in the cotton first , then place the splint over it, or wrap an ace bandage around the cotton padding and secure.
Pet First-Aid Kit
Be prepared for emergencies by purchasing a ready-made first aid kit or make your own by purchasing the items listed below. Include the number to your veterinarian and the nearest emergency clinic and put it in an easy to reach place, such as in the kitchen or bathroom. Check with your veterinarian about proper dosages of any medications.
~ Activated charcoal (available at drug stores) for absorbing poisons
~ Adhesive tape to secure bandages
~ Antibacterial ointment or powder for cleaning wounds
~ Artificial tears for flushing eyes
~ Benadryl, for allergic reactions, as directed by the veterinarian
~ Blunt-tipped scissors to trim hair from wounds and cut bandaging material
~ Chlorohexidine for cleaning wounds
~ Cloths or sanitary napkins to help stem blood flow
~ Cotton balls
~ Cotton swabs
~ Disinfectant solution
~ Eye dropper, turkey baster, or syringe to flush wounds
~ Gauze pads and rolls to make bandages and a muzzle
~ Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent) to induce vomiting as instructed. (Do so only on veterinary instruction. Do not induce vomiting unless the vet advises you to; in some cases of poisoning, throwing up can make the situation worse.)
~ Kaopectate (ask your veterinarian what amount is appropriate to control your dog's diarrhea)
~ K-Y Brand Jelly or petroleum jelly to lubricate a thermometer
~ Needless syringe for giving liquid medications
~ Needle-nose pliers to remove obstructions from the mouth or throat
~ Plaster splint for broken limbs
~ Rectal thermometer
~ Towels
~ Tweezers
~ Activated charcoal (available at drug stores) for absorbing poisons
~ Adhesive tape to secure bandages
~ Antibacterial ointment or powder for cleaning wounds
~ Artificial tears for flushing eyes
~ Benadryl, for allergic reactions, as directed by the veterinarian
~ Blunt-tipped scissors to trim hair from wounds and cut bandaging material
~ Chlorohexidine for cleaning wounds
~ Cloths or sanitary napkins to help stem blood flow
~ Cotton balls
~ Cotton swabs
~ Disinfectant solution
~ Eye dropper, turkey baster, or syringe to flush wounds
~ Gauze pads and rolls to make bandages and a muzzle
~ Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent) to induce vomiting as instructed. (Do so only on veterinary instruction. Do not induce vomiting unless the vet advises you to; in some cases of poisoning, throwing up can make the situation worse.)
~ Kaopectate (ask your veterinarian what amount is appropriate to control your dog's diarrhea)
~ K-Y Brand Jelly or petroleum jelly to lubricate a thermometer
~ Needless syringe for giving liquid medications
~ Needle-nose pliers to remove obstructions from the mouth or throat
~ Plaster splint for broken limbs
~ Rectal thermometer
~ Towels
~ Tweezers
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Car Sickness
Here are some remedies you can use to help prevent your dog from getting carsick. My little dachshund has a hard time riding in a car and he acts like he's going to the electric chair every time he gets in the car. I tried these tips and they work. So whether it's a ride around the block or an long trip, try these to help keep your dog happy and well.
~ Car sickness is often caused by anxiety, rather than motion. (Motion sickness is caused by fluid changes in the middle ear that affect the body's equilibrium.) Teach your dog that car rides are good. Have him sit in the car for a few minutes each day for about a week without going anywhere. Then each day for several days drive a short distance, such as around the block. Slowly increase the distance and time he rides in the car. Offer a lot of praise during this process. Don't put your dog in the car only for unpleasant trips such as going to the vet. Take him on rides to the park or to visit friends and your dog will soon associate the car with positive experiences.
~ If your dog is fearful, try Rescue Remedy, Serene-Um, Pet Calm, or another natural remedy. These products use flower essences, herbs, vitamins, and minerals for natural calming and stress relief. Check with your pet supply store, local health food store, or veterinarian for more information.
~ Don't feed your dog four to eight hours prior to a car trip. A dog with an empty stomach is less likely to vomit. Water is okay and may make your dog feel more comfortable. However, some dogs may feel better with a small amount of food in their stomachs; try giving a small amount of food if your dog has vomited on an empty stomach on previous trips.
~ Keep fresh air flowing while your dog is in the car. Don't open the window far enough for him to get out or stick his head through.
~ Allow your dog to ride in the front seat where there is minimal movement (do not allow your dog to ride in the front seat if you have air bags). Some experts believe that allowing the dog to look outside, positioned so he can see out the front window in the direction the car is moving, may help prevent car sickness. Others believe looking outside actually increases car sickness and dogs should be confined to crates or made to lie down where they can't see out. If the first method you try with your dog doesn't work, try the other.
~ Drive slowly and carefully, avoiding sharp turns and jerky movements. On longer trips, stop every hour or so and give your dog a quick walk and a little water.
~ If all else fails, talk to your veterinarian about using an over-the-counter medication such as Dramamine, which is safe for most dogs. Give your dog the medication approximately one hour prior to the car trip. Your veterinarian may prescribe something strong if over-the-counter medication doesn't work.
~ Car sickness is often caused by anxiety, rather than motion. (Motion sickness is caused by fluid changes in the middle ear that affect the body's equilibrium.) Teach your dog that car rides are good. Have him sit in the car for a few minutes each day for about a week without going anywhere. Then each day for several days drive a short distance, such as around the block. Slowly increase the distance and time he rides in the car. Offer a lot of praise during this process. Don't put your dog in the car only for unpleasant trips such as going to the vet. Take him on rides to the park or to visit friends and your dog will soon associate the car with positive experiences.
~ If your dog is fearful, try Rescue Remedy, Serene-Um, Pet Calm, or another natural remedy. These products use flower essences, herbs, vitamins, and minerals for natural calming and stress relief. Check with your pet supply store, local health food store, or veterinarian for more information.
~ Don't feed your dog four to eight hours prior to a car trip. A dog with an empty stomach is less likely to vomit. Water is okay and may make your dog feel more comfortable. However, some dogs may feel better with a small amount of food in their stomachs; try giving a small amount of food if your dog has vomited on an empty stomach on previous trips.
~ Keep fresh air flowing while your dog is in the car. Don't open the window far enough for him to get out or stick his head through.
~ Allow your dog to ride in the front seat where there is minimal movement (do not allow your dog to ride in the front seat if you have air bags). Some experts believe that allowing the dog to look outside, positioned so he can see out the front window in the direction the car is moving, may help prevent car sickness. Others believe looking outside actually increases car sickness and dogs should be confined to crates or made to lie down where they can't see out. If the first method you try with your dog doesn't work, try the other.
~ Drive slowly and carefully, avoiding sharp turns and jerky movements. On longer trips, stop every hour or so and give your dog a quick walk and a little water.
~ If all else fails, talk to your veterinarian about using an over-the-counter medication such as Dramamine, which is safe for most dogs. Give your dog the medication approximately one hour prior to the car trip. Your veterinarian may prescribe something strong if over-the-counter medication doesn't work.
Traveling With Fido
Now that summer is upon us, we will be going on vacations and rather than boarding our pets, we may choose to take them along too. If that's what you decide to do, there's things you need to bring along to ensure their health and safety.
Up-to-date Identification Tags; include your cell phone number and the phone number of your destination
Food, fresh water, and sturdy bowls for both
A strong leash
A few of your dog's favorite toys; include different types (frizbees are great for the beach)
Bedding that can be used both in the car and in hotel rooms
Basic grooming supplies
Medications in sturdy, water-proof containers
Dramamine for carsickness; check with your veterinarian for the correct dosage for your dog
Tranquilizers, if prescribed by your veterinarian
Proof of vaccinations and copies of other medical records
Pet first-aid kit
Doggy seat belt or crate
Your veterinarian's telephone number and the number of an emergency veterinarian at your destination
A current photograph of your dog in case he gets lost
Traveling with your dog can be a lot of fun but some dogs do not always do well traveling and get carsick. My dachshund does not travel well so it is not an option for him to travel with us as much as we would like for him to. He does not respond well to carsickness medication like Dramamine. As hard as it can be to leave them behind, if you have someone you and your dog likes and trusts, it may be in their best interest to let them stay at home. There is nothing wrong with this option. Just be sure to give the caregiver all the information regarding how they can reach you, their medical records, medications, etc. Also let your vet know that someone else will be caring for your dog while you are gone. That way your vet will not be alarmed that someone else is bringing in your dog. Whichever you choose, boarding or bringing him along, make sure he has a pleasant vacation too!
Up-to-date Identification Tags; include your cell phone number and the phone number of your destination
Food, fresh water, and sturdy bowls for both
A strong leash
A few of your dog's favorite toys; include different types (frizbees are great for the beach)
Bedding that can be used both in the car and in hotel rooms
Basic grooming supplies
Medications in sturdy, water-proof containers
Dramamine for carsickness; check with your veterinarian for the correct dosage for your dog
Tranquilizers, if prescribed by your veterinarian
Proof of vaccinations and copies of other medical records
Pet first-aid kit
Doggy seat belt or crate
Your veterinarian's telephone number and the number of an emergency veterinarian at your destination
A current photograph of your dog in case he gets lost
Traveling with your dog can be a lot of fun but some dogs do not always do well traveling and get carsick. My dachshund does not travel well so it is not an option for him to travel with us as much as we would like for him to. He does not respond well to carsickness medication like Dramamine. As hard as it can be to leave them behind, if you have someone you and your dog likes and trusts, it may be in their best interest to let them stay at home. There is nothing wrong with this option. Just be sure to give the caregiver all the information regarding how they can reach you, their medical records, medications, etc. Also let your vet know that someone else will be caring for your dog while you are gone. That way your vet will not be alarmed that someone else is bringing in your dog. Whichever you choose, boarding or bringing him along, make sure he has a pleasant vacation too!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Shopping List for New Puppy
Before bringing your new baby home, there are certain "necessities" that you will need to buy. Below is a list of some of the things you will want to have on hand.
Puppy pads (to soak up accidents)
Urine Cleaner
Plenty of paper towels
Disinfectant
Appropriately sized bed
Appropriately sized crate
Food and water bowls
Food - puppy or adult
Collar and leash
Appropriately sized seat belt or car crate
Grooming supplies - brush, comb, nail clippers (and styptic powder),
cotton swabs, ear cleanser, and dog shampoo
Child gate/s (enough to block off the kitchen from the rest of the house
Puppy pads (to soak up accidents)
Urine Cleaner
Plenty of paper towels
Disinfectant
Appropriately sized bed
Appropriately sized crate
Food and water bowls
Food - puppy or adult
Collar and leash
Appropriately sized seat belt or car crate
Grooming supplies - brush, comb, nail clippers (and styptic powder),
cotton swabs, ear cleanser, and dog shampoo
Child gate/s (enough to block off the kitchen from the rest of the house
Dog- and Puppy-Proofing Checklist
Use this checklist when dog- or puppy-proofing your home:
Remove poisonous plants in the house and yard or keep them safely out of reach.
Install childproof locks on doors where cleaning supplies, pesticides, and other chemicals are kept. Store all toxins up high, where your dog can't reach them.
Invest in indoor and outdoor trash cans with secure lids or keep trash where your dog can't get to it.
Pick up small objects that could be choking hazards or cause intestinal blockages, including loose change, paperclips, rubber bands, and dental floss.
Cover electrical cords with rugs or plastic cord guards or tape them to baseboards to keep dogs from chewing them. Use outlet plugs on open outlets.
Secure or move lamps, statues, and other breakable objects placed on unstable tables or bases. A frisky dog could easily knock these items over.
Make sure screens are secure on low windows. Install springs on screen doors and gates so that they can't be left open.
use tall baby gates to block stairs and access to other areas you don't want your dog to venture.
In the yard, fix fence holes and gaps; removing choking hazards, dangerous plants, and other toxic substances. Keep garbage cans out of dog's reach.
Fence or cover hot tubs, swimming pools, deep fountains, and ponds.
Clean driveway and garage floors to remove any antifreeze or other car drippings.
Remove poisonous plants in the house and yard or keep them safely out of reach.
Install childproof locks on doors where cleaning supplies, pesticides, and other chemicals are kept. Store all toxins up high, where your dog can't reach them.
Invest in indoor and outdoor trash cans with secure lids or keep trash where your dog can't get to it.
Pick up small objects that could be choking hazards or cause intestinal blockages, including loose change, paperclips, rubber bands, and dental floss.
Cover electrical cords with rugs or plastic cord guards or tape them to baseboards to keep dogs from chewing them. Use outlet plugs on open outlets.
Secure or move lamps, statues, and other breakable objects placed on unstable tables or bases. A frisky dog could easily knock these items over.
Make sure screens are secure on low windows. Install springs on screen doors and gates so that they can't be left open.
use tall baby gates to block stairs and access to other areas you don't want your dog to venture.
In the yard, fix fence holes and gaps; removing choking hazards, dangerous plants, and other toxic substances. Keep garbage cans out of dog's reach.
Fence or cover hot tubs, swimming pools, deep fountains, and ponds.
Clean driveway and garage floors to remove any antifreeze or other car drippings.
Monday, June 15, 2009
What to Look for at a Breeder's
So you've decided to get a new puppy or an adult dog and you're trying to decide on what size and type of dog that will fit your lifestyle the best. Dogs come in all shapes and sizes and each one will have it's on unique personality. Choosing the right fit for your home is very important. You would not want to get a Newfoundland if you live in an apartment. You also need to take into consideration grooming expenses as well. Long-haired dogs such as poodles and shih tzus will require hair cuts where as a miniature pinscher needs virtually no grooming, other than their nails clipped and baths. If you decide to purchase a dog from a breeder, here are some tips on what to look for...
Is the home or kennel clean?
Does the kennel area and home smell pleasant?
Is water readily available?
Do the animals have adequate bedding and toys to keep them occupied?
What is the exercise area like? Is it large and secure?
Are the kennels and exercise areas kept clean of feces?
Do the puppies and adult dogs look healthy?
Are the puppies' eyes clear and skin elastic?
Do the skin and ears smell clean?
Are the pups' bellies slightly plumb but not turgid?
Is the anus clean of feces?
Are the puppies active and curious?
Are the adult dogs, especially the dam, friendly?
If the answer is no to these questions, you should find another breeder or check into that particular breed's rescue group. There are rescues available for virtually any dog and they're a great resource should any problems arise. Be sure to thoroughly research the breed before purchasing as it may not be the right puppy for you. There's pros and cons with every breed and it pays to be fully informed before making your choice. Too many animals are abandoned or dropped off at animal shelters because people bought or adopted them without knowing the downside to the breed. I have done extensive research on breeds online and there is a website devoted to every breed. You, your family and the puppy will be much happier if you have all the facts. Now, go play with your dog!
Is the home or kennel clean?
Does the kennel area and home smell pleasant?
Is water readily available?
Do the animals have adequate bedding and toys to keep them occupied?
What is the exercise area like? Is it large and secure?
Are the kennels and exercise areas kept clean of feces?
Do the puppies and adult dogs look healthy?
Are the puppies' eyes clear and skin elastic?
Do the skin and ears smell clean?
Are the pups' bellies slightly plumb but not turgid?
Is the anus clean of feces?
Are the puppies active and curious?
Are the adult dogs, especially the dam, friendly?
If the answer is no to these questions, you should find another breeder or check into that particular breed's rescue group. There are rescues available for virtually any dog and they're a great resource should any problems arise. Be sure to thoroughly research the breed before purchasing as it may not be the right puppy for you. There's pros and cons with every breed and it pays to be fully informed before making your choice. Too many animals are abandoned or dropped off at animal shelters because people bought or adopted them without knowing the downside to the breed. I have done extensive research on breeds online and there is a website devoted to every breed. You, your family and the puppy will be much happier if you have all the facts. Now, go play with your dog!
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