The study of herbs can take a lifetime. A veterinarian who dispenses herbs should be able to provide some evidence of background and continuing education in the field. The International Veterinary Acupuncture Society offers a continuing education course for traditional Chinese veterinary herbal therapy. There are some courses in Western herbal medicine and veterinarians can also take a human herbal course and then adapt the information to the veterinary field.
Look for a veterinarian who has been using herbs for a while and has learned the little tricks of how to administer them as well as what to use to treat particular conditions. An herbal practitioner also should know herbs well enough to explain their uses and benefits at length. Ask whether the veterinarian always treats a certain disease the same way. Good herbal practitioners adapt their treatments to each individual animal.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Common Natural Remedies Used by Veterinarians
The following supplements and their natural effects can help cure your dog of certain commonplace ailments:
Aloe - relieves itching and assists healing
Echinacea - strengthens immune system
Ginger - relieves stomach problems
Ginkgo biloba - helps with cognitive dysfunction
Glucosamine and chondroitin - relieves arthritis and join pain
Milk thistle - relieves liver problems
St. John's wort - fights viral infections and neural disorders
Slippery elm - relieves digestive problems and cough and is used as a poultice for skin irritation and inflammation
Vitamin C - antioxidant
Aloe - relieves itching and assists healing
Echinacea - strengthens immune system
Ginger - relieves stomach problems
Ginkgo biloba - helps with cognitive dysfunction
Glucosamine and chondroitin - relieves arthritis and join pain
Milk thistle - relieves liver problems
St. John's wort - fights viral infections and neural disorders
Slippery elm - relieves digestive problems and cough and is used as a poultice for skin irritation and inflammation
Vitamin C - antioxidant
Critter Sitter's "Dog of the Day" - Rat Terriers
Rat Terrier
Country of Origin: United States
History: The rat terrier was descended from terriers brought over by working class English immigrants, including the smooth fox terrier, Manchester terrier, and now-extinct English white terrier. The rat terrier was bred to control rats, as well as to provide entertainment in the blood sport of ratting. It was later crossed with whippets, Italian greyhounds, and beagles. The breed was popularized by Teddy Roosevelt, who often hunted with rat terriers.
Physical Description: The rat terrier is a small to medium-size, muscular dog that is slightly longer than it is tall. It has a wedge-shaped head and the skull and muzzle are of equal length. The nose is black or self-colored and the eyes are prominent. The ears are button, tipped, or erect and V-shaped. The tail may be docked, naturally long and curved upward, or a natural bob. Coat colors range from solid white to bicolor or tricolor, with white and black, tan, chocolate, blue, blue fawn, apricot, or lemon.
Height (Miniature): under 13 inches
Height (Standard): 13 to 18 inches
Weight (Standard): 10 to 25 pounds, both
Note: The rat terrier description is somewhat convoluted, as different registries have different standards: The UKC recognizes miniatures and standards, as well as hairless rat terriers. The Rat Terrier Club of America recognizes miniatures and standards but not hairless, which they included under another breed, the American hairless terrier. The National Rat Terrier Association recognizes toy, miniature and standards, as well as two body types: Type A - square dog; Type B - longer than it is tall, as well as a larger variety called Decker giants. Also see the Teddy Roosevelt terrier.
Temperament: The rat terrier is an energetic, curious, and intelligent dog. It is game and tenacious when hunting but affable and affectionate at home. It gets along with children, other dogs, and cats.
Activity Level: Moderate
Best Owner: It adapts to most living situations: city or rural, active or sedentary.
Special Needs: Exercise, human companionship, socialization, sun protection, training
Possible Health Concerns: Allergies, bite problems, hip and elbow dysplasia, lusxating patellas, mange
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Critter Sitter's "Dog of the Day" - Pekingese
Pekingese
Alternative Names: Lion dog, sun dog, sleeve dog
Country of Origin: China
History: Pekingese-type dogs have been known in China since the TangDynasty in the eighth century. Its ownership was limited to nobility; the theft of a Pekingese was punishable by death. It was known by three names: lion dog (for its heavy mane), sun dog (for its golden red color), and sleeve dog (for its tiny size, allowing it to be carried inside an owner's sleeve). It was first introduced to the Western world in 1860, when the Imperial Palace was looted by the British and five of the dogs were stolen and taken to England, where one was given to Queen Victoria. The breed first came to the U.S. in the early twentieth century.
Physical Description: The Pekingese is a small, stocky dog with a heavy front and light rear, giving it a lionlike appearance. Its head is broad and the wrinkled muzzle is very short and broad, with a strong jaw. The nose is short, flat, and black. The round eyes are large, prominent, and dark. The drop ears are heart-shaped. It has a very short neck; flat feet that are often turned outward; and short, bowed legs. The tail is set high and curled over the back. It is double coated with a thick undercoat and a long, flat, soft outer coat. It has long feathers on its thighs, legs, tail, toes, and ears and a profuse mane. It can be any color, including red, fawn, black, black and tan, or white. It often has a spectaclelike mask on its face.
Height: 8 to 9 inches
Weight: 8 to 14 pounds
Temperament: The Pekingese is an independent and regal dog that is dignified and stubborn. It is not always friendly with children or with other dogs but is good-tempered and playful with those it's familiar with. Its stubbornness makes it somewhat difficult to train.
Activity Level: Low
Best Owner: This breed does well in an apartment with adults and older children
Special Needs: Grooming, protection from heat, socialization, supervision with small children, training
Possible Health Concerns: Anesthesia and heat sensitivity, brachycephalic syndrome, corneal ulceration, intervertebral disk disease, stenotic nares, umbilical hernia
Grieving Dogs
Dogs form deep attachments and may experience sadness and even depression when a human or canine companion dies. A dog may search the house looking for his friend, be disinterested in food, become lethargic, or display other unusual behaviors.
To help your dog get through his grief, keep things, including bedding, toys, and blankets, familiar, and don't change your dog's routine at this time. Provide a lot of affection and physical and mental stimulation. Walks, runs, and other outdoor exercise can help combat lethargy and depression. If your dog isn't eating, try tempting him with some tasty treats. If he does not eat for several days, see your veterinarian.
If you're experiencing the loss of a dog, introducing a new dog into the household at this time may or may not make the situation better. It all depends on your dog's personality. Take the time to make a good decision. An older dog might be a better choice than a rambunctious puppy. Be realistic. If you do get another dog, be sure to give your current dog a lot of extra attention during the introduction period.
To help your dog get through his grief, keep things, including bedding, toys, and blankets, familiar, and don't change your dog's routine at this time. Provide a lot of affection and physical and mental stimulation. Walks, runs, and other outdoor exercise can help combat lethargy and depression. If your dog isn't eating, try tempting him with some tasty treats. If he does not eat for several days, see your veterinarian.
If you're experiencing the loss of a dog, introducing a new dog into the household at this time may or may not make the situation better. It all depends on your dog's personality. Take the time to make a good decision. An older dog might be a better choice than a rambunctious puppy. Be realistic. If you do get another dog, be sure to give your current dog a lot of extra attention during the introduction period.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Games for Dogs and Kids
Both kids and dogs love to play. And it is double the fun when they play together. Here are some simple games that children and dogs can enjoy together while also reinforcing appropriate behavior for both of them.
Hide and Seek: This classic game becomes extra special when played with a dog. Your child holds the dog's favorite treat and hides in another room or somewhere outside in a fenced yard. You may have to hold onto the dog as your child is hiding so he doesn't automatically follow her. As soon as your child is hidden away, let the dog go, telling him to find your child. At first, encourage your child to help the dog find her by calling him. When the dog finds the child, she should make a big deal over him, offering lots of pats, hugs, and praise, as well as his treat. Eventually, your dog will be able to play the game without having his name called.
Find It: In this game, the dog finds an object such as a treat, toy, or ball. To teach this game to your dog, put him in a sit and stay position, or hold him if he doesn't know these commands. Have your child hide the treat, letting the dog see where it is placed, and then tell him to find it. A lot of praise should be lavished on the dog when he is successful. Allow him to eat the treat or play with the ball or toy when he finds it. After doing this several times, your child can hide the object in a less visible location.
Fetch: Dogs love to chase and fetch all sorts of different items, including balls, toys, and Frisbees. If playing with a ball, be sure that it is small enough to fit comfortably in the dog's mouth but not so small that he could choke or swallow it. Have your child throw the item while telling the dog to fetch. When the dog returns with the item, tell your child to give him the drop it command. She should give him a lot of praise when he drops the item. Make sure your child knows never to try to take the toy out of the dog's mouth because she could be bitten. If the dog won't drop the item, have your child throw something else for him to chase, which will probably cause him to drop what he has in his mouth.
Soccer: To start, get a soccer ball or any other sort of soft ball, making sure it is too large for the dog to pick up in his mouth. Have your child gently kick the ball so it rolls on the ground toward the dog. If necessary, have your child encourage the dog to get the ball. At first, the dog may try to pick up the ball but will quickly realize that he must push it with his nose for it to move. When he does this, the child should give him a lot of praise. Once the dog grasps the game, he and your child can kick and push the ball between them.
Hide and Seek: This classic game becomes extra special when played with a dog. Your child holds the dog's favorite treat and hides in another room or somewhere outside in a fenced yard. You may have to hold onto the dog as your child is hiding so he doesn't automatically follow her. As soon as your child is hidden away, let the dog go, telling him to find your child. At first, encourage your child to help the dog find her by calling him. When the dog finds the child, she should make a big deal over him, offering lots of pats, hugs, and praise, as well as his treat. Eventually, your dog will be able to play the game without having his name called.
Find It: In this game, the dog finds an object such as a treat, toy, or ball. To teach this game to your dog, put him in a sit and stay position, or hold him if he doesn't know these commands. Have your child hide the treat, letting the dog see where it is placed, and then tell him to find it. A lot of praise should be lavished on the dog when he is successful. Allow him to eat the treat or play with the ball or toy when he finds it. After doing this several times, your child can hide the object in a less visible location.
Fetch: Dogs love to chase and fetch all sorts of different items, including balls, toys, and Frisbees. If playing with a ball, be sure that it is small enough to fit comfortably in the dog's mouth but not so small that he could choke or swallow it. Have your child throw the item while telling the dog to fetch. When the dog returns with the item, tell your child to give him the drop it command. She should give him a lot of praise when he drops the item. Make sure your child knows never to try to take the toy out of the dog's mouth because she could be bitten. If the dog won't drop the item, have your child throw something else for him to chase, which will probably cause him to drop what he has in his mouth.
Soccer: To start, get a soccer ball or any other sort of soft ball, making sure it is too large for the dog to pick up in his mouth. Have your child gently kick the ball so it rolls on the ground toward the dog. If necessary, have your child encourage the dog to get the ball. At first, the dog may try to pick up the ball but will quickly realize that he must push it with his nose for it to move. When he does this, the child should give him a lot of praise. Once the dog grasps the game, he and your child can kick and push the ball between them.
Critter Sitter's "Dog of the Day" - Dachshund
DachshundAlternative Names: teckel
Country of Origin: Germany
History: It is believed that the dachshund is a cousin of the basset hound and may go as far back as the sixteenth century. It is probably crossed with terriers. The breed was developed to hunt badgers and is still used as a hunting dog, as well as a companion. It became popular in the U.S. during the 1930s and 1940s.
Physical Description: The dachshund is a compact, muscular dog with a long body and short legs. It has a wedge-shaped head, long drop ears, a deep chest, and a long tail. There are two sizes, miniature and standard, and three coat varieties, smooth, long-haired, and wire-haired. The coat is short and smooth, long and silky with feathers, or long and wiry with bristly facial hair. It may be red or cream, or black, chocolate, blue, or fawn, with tan points. There is also a salt and pepper coloring called wild boar and a number of patterns, including dapple, brindle, and piebald.
Height (Standard): No standard available
Weight (Standard): 16 to 32 pounds
Height (Miniature): No standard available
Weight (Miniature): Under 11 pounds
Temperament: This is a friendly, good-natured, and fun-loving dog. It is intelligent, playful, and affectionate.
Activity Level: Moderate to high
Best Owner: The dachshund is adaptable to many living situations, including city or rural life. The miniature is an ideal apartment dog.
Special Needs: Grooming
Possible Health Concerns: Bloat, epilepsy, hypothyroidism, intervertebral disc disease
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Insurance Resources
Some insurance companies will not provide homeowner's coverage to people with certain dog breeds or breed mixes they deem dangerous. Bull terriers, American pit bull terriers, American Staffordshire terriers, presas canarios, rottweilers, Doberman pinschers, Akitas, and chow chows are a few of the breeds commonly discriminated against by insurance companies. Finding coverage for owners of these dogs can be a challenge. Here are a few resources for finding dog-friendly coverage:
~ Contact the insurance commissioner in your state for a list of all insurance companies doing business in the state and for any other information that may be helpful to dog owners looking for insurance. Let the insurance commissioner know if you have been discriminated against by an insurance company because of your dog and ask what can be done about this practice.
~ The Insurance Information Institute has information on homeowner's insurance and dogs. Go to www.ii.org.
~ The Humane Society of the United States (www.hsus.org) and American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.aspca.org) can provide information about insurance discrimination practices.
~ The American Dog Owner's Association, Inc., provides information on pending dog legislation throughout the country, including insurance legislation. Go to www.adoa.org.
~ Contact the American Kennel Club for information on insurers and their policies regarding dog breeds.
~ Contact breed clubs and breed rescue groups that work with your breed of dog. Ask them to suggest ways to find breed-friendly insurance coverage.
~ Investigate company policies, as well as general industry information, on insurance comparison. Web sites such as www.insurance.com, www.insure.com, or www.insweb.com.
~ Talk to friends, neighbors, and others with dogs, especially with your breed of dog, abou the type of insurance they have and ask if they had any difficulties obtaining it.
~ Contact the insurance commissioner in your state for a list of all insurance companies doing business in the state and for any other information that may be helpful to dog owners looking for insurance. Let the insurance commissioner know if you have been discriminated against by an insurance company because of your dog and ask what can be done about this practice.
~ The Insurance Information Institute has information on homeowner's insurance and dogs. Go to www.ii.org.
~ The Humane Society of the United States (www.hsus.org) and American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.aspca.org) can provide information about insurance discrimination practices.
~ The American Dog Owner's Association, Inc., provides information on pending dog legislation throughout the country, including insurance legislation. Go to www.adoa.org.
~ Contact the American Kennel Club for information on insurers and their policies regarding dog breeds.
~ Contact breed clubs and breed rescue groups that work with your breed of dog. Ask them to suggest ways to find breed-friendly insurance coverage.
~ Investigate company policies, as well as general industry information, on insurance comparison. Web sites such as www.insurance.com, www.insure.com, or www.insweb.com.
~ Talk to friends, neighbors, and others with dogs, especially with your breed of dog, abou the type of insurance they have and ask if they had any difficulties obtaining it.
Critter Sitter's "Dog of the Day" - Miniature Pinscher
Miniature Pinscher
Alternative Names: Min Pin
Country of Origin: Germany
History: The miniature pinscher is hundreds of years old, older than the Doberman (to which it is not related). It is believed to be developed as a small ratter by breeding German pinschers to dachshunds or greyhounds. The breed was developed to its current form around 1895. Although WWI halted its development, fanciers outside of Germany took up its cause after the war. It was first seen in the U.S. in the 1920s.
Physical Description: The min pin is a small, sturdy, compact dog. Its muscular body is wedge shaped. It has a narrow, tapering head with a flat skull, which is parallel to the strong muzzle. The eyes are oval, almost black, and bright. The ears may be cropped or natural. The tail is docked and held erect. The coat is short, smooth and straight; it comes in red, stag red (red with an intermingling of black hairs), black with rust markings, or chocolate with rust markings.
Height: 10 to 12 inches
Weight: 8 to 10 pounds
Temperament: The miniature pinscher is an alert dog with vigor and spirit. It is fearless and self-confident. It is wary with strangers and sometimes aggressive with other dogs. It will react to provocation.
Activity Level: Moderate to high
Best Owner: It does well with an active, patient owner in a city or suburban home
Special Needs: Exercise, socialization, supervision with children, training
Possible Health Concerns: Cardiac problems, cervical (dry) disc, epilepsy, hip dysplasia, Legg-Perthes disease, luxating patellas, thyroid problems
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Dog Breeds With Reported Congenital Deafness
These dogs are known for having hearing problems or problems with deafness.
Akita
American Cocker Spaniel
American Staffordshire Terrier
Australian Cattle Dog
Australian Shepherd
Beagle
Border Collie
Boston Terrier
Bull Terrier
Catahoula Leopard Dog
Collie
Dachshund (dappled coat pattern)
Dalmation
Doberman Pinscher
Dogo Argentino
English Bulldog
English Setter
Foxhound
Fox Terrier
Great Dane
Great Pyrnees
Maltese
Old English Sheepdog
Papillon
Pointer
Miniature Poodle
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Scottish Terrier
Sealyham Terrier
Shetland Sheepdog
Walker Hound
West Highland White Terrier
Akita
American Cocker Spaniel
American Staffordshire Terrier
Australian Cattle Dog
Australian Shepherd
Beagle
Border Collie
Boston Terrier
Bull Terrier
Catahoula Leopard Dog
Collie
Dachshund (dappled coat pattern)
Dalmation
Doberman Pinscher
Dogo Argentino
English Bulldog
English Setter
Foxhound
Fox Terrier
Great Dane
Great Pyrnees
Maltese
Old English Sheepdog
Papillon
Pointer
Miniature Poodle
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Scottish Terrier
Sealyham Terrier
Shetland Sheepdog
Walker Hound
West Highland White Terrier
Top Breeds and Boldest Dogs - Various (Doggie Fun Facts)
These are just some general "top breeds" according to various studies and just what I consider to be "Doggie Fun Facts."
AKC's Top 25 Breeds
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Golden Retriever
3. Beagle
4. German Shepherd Dog
5. Dachshund
6. Yorkshire Terrier
7. Boxer
8. Poodle
9. Shih Tzu
10. Chihuahua
11. Miniature Schnauzer
12. Pug
13. Pomeranian
14. Cocker Spaniel
15. Rottweiler
16. Bulldog
17. Shetland Sheep Dog
18. Boston Terrier
19. Miniature Pinscher
20. Maltese
21. German Shorthaired Pointer
22. Doberman Pinscher
23. Siberian Husky
24. Pembroke Welsh Corgi
25. Basset Hound
UKC's Top 20 Breeds
1. Treeing Walker Coonhound
2. American Pit Bull Terrier
3. American Eskimo Dog
4. Bluetick Coonhound
5. Jack Russel Terrier
6. English Coonhound
7. Toy Fox Terrier
8. Black and Tan Coonhound
9. redbone Coonhound
10. Beagle
11. Labrador Retriever
12. Plott Hound
13. Rat Terrier
14. German Shepherd Dog
15. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
16. Parson Russell Terrier
17. Brittany Spaniel
18. Alaskan Klee Kai
19. Havanese
20. Coton de Tulear
Top Breeds in Canada
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Golden Retriever
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Poodle
5. Shetland Sheep Dog
6. Yorkshire Terrier
7. Miniature Schnauzer
8. Shih Tzu
9. Bichon Frise
10. Boxer
11. Beagle
12. Rottweiler
13. Pomeranian
14. Bernese Mountain Dog
15. Cocker Spaniel
16. Siberian Husky
17. Soft-Coated Wheaton Terrier
18. English Springer Spaniel
19. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
20. Bulldog
Boldest Dogs
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Flat-Coated Retriever
3. Belgian Malinois
4. Boxer
5. Rottweiler
6. German Shepherd Dog
7. Giant Schnauzer
8. Border Collie
9. American Staffordshire Terrier
10. Parson Russell Terrier
Top Breeds in New York City
1. Mixed Breed
2. Labrador Retriever
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Shih Tzu
5. Pit Bull-Type
6. Chihuahua
7. Yorkshire Terrier
8. Cocker Spaniel
9. Rottweiler
10. Maltese
Top 20 Breeds in the United Kingdom
1. Labrador Retriever
2. German Shepherd Dog (Alsatian)
3. Cocker Spaniel (English)
4. English Springer Spaniel
5. Staffordshire Bull Terrier
6. Golden Retriever
7. West Highland White Terrier
8. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
9. Boxer
10. Rottweiler
11. Border Terrier
12. Yorkshire Terrier
13. Shih Tzu
14. Lhasa Apso
15. Doberman
16. Bull Terrier
17. Miniature Schnauzer
18. Weimaraner
19. Bichon Frise
20. Border Collie
Top 10 Dogs in Hawaii
1. Mixed Breed, Undetermined
2. Terrier Mix
3. Labrador Mix
4. Labrador Retriever
5. Golden Retriever
6. American Pit Bull Terrier
7. Pit Bull Mix
8. Shepherd Mix
9. Rottweiler
10. German Shepherd Dog
Top 20 Breeds in Finland
1. Finnish Hound
2. Norwegian Elkhound
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Golden Retriever
5. Labrador Retriever
6. Karelian Bear Dog
7. Finnish Spitz
8. Lapphund
9. Jamthund
10. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
11. Miniature Schnauzer
12. Shetland Sheepdog
13. Rough Collie
14. Rottweiler
15. Beagle
16. Cocker Spaniel
17. Bichon Frise
18. Wirehaired Dachshund
19. Tibetan Spaniel
20. Berner Sennenhund
Top Breeds in Australia
1. German Shepherd Dog
2. Labrador Retriever
3. Golden Retriever
4. Staffordshire Terrier
5. Rottweiler
6. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
7. Boxer
8. Border Collie
9. Cocker Spaniel
10. Australian Cattle Dog
11. Doberman Pinscher
12. Jack Russell Terrier
13. Maltese
14. Dalmation
15. Toy Poodle
16. Siberian Husky
17. Beagle
18. Shetland Sheepdog
19. Shih Tzu
20. Silky Terrier
AKC's Top 25 Breeds
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Golden Retriever
3. Beagle
4. German Shepherd Dog
5. Dachshund
6. Yorkshire Terrier
7. Boxer
8. Poodle
9. Shih Tzu
10. Chihuahua
11. Miniature Schnauzer
12. Pug
13. Pomeranian
14. Cocker Spaniel
15. Rottweiler
16. Bulldog
17. Shetland Sheep Dog
18. Boston Terrier
19. Miniature Pinscher
20. Maltese
21. German Shorthaired Pointer
22. Doberman Pinscher
23. Siberian Husky
24. Pembroke Welsh Corgi
25. Basset Hound
UKC's Top 20 Breeds
1. Treeing Walker Coonhound
2. American Pit Bull Terrier
3. American Eskimo Dog
4. Bluetick Coonhound
5. Jack Russel Terrier
6. English Coonhound
7. Toy Fox Terrier
8. Black and Tan Coonhound
9. redbone Coonhound
10. Beagle
11. Labrador Retriever
12. Plott Hound
13. Rat Terrier
14. German Shepherd Dog
15. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
16. Parson Russell Terrier
17. Brittany Spaniel
18. Alaskan Klee Kai
19. Havanese
20. Coton de Tulear
Top Breeds in Canada
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Golden Retriever
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Poodle
5. Shetland Sheep Dog
6. Yorkshire Terrier
7. Miniature Schnauzer
8. Shih Tzu
9. Bichon Frise
10. Boxer
11. Beagle
12. Rottweiler
13. Pomeranian
14. Bernese Mountain Dog
15. Cocker Spaniel
16. Siberian Husky
17. Soft-Coated Wheaton Terrier
18. English Springer Spaniel
19. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
20. Bulldog
Boldest Dogs
1. Labrador Retriever
2. Flat-Coated Retriever
3. Belgian Malinois
4. Boxer
5. Rottweiler
6. German Shepherd Dog
7. Giant Schnauzer
8. Border Collie
9. American Staffordshire Terrier
10. Parson Russell Terrier
Top Breeds in New York City
1. Mixed Breed
2. Labrador Retriever
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Shih Tzu
5. Pit Bull-Type
6. Chihuahua
7. Yorkshire Terrier
8. Cocker Spaniel
9. Rottweiler
10. Maltese
Top 20 Breeds in the United Kingdom
1. Labrador Retriever
2. German Shepherd Dog (Alsatian)
3. Cocker Spaniel (English)
4. English Springer Spaniel
5. Staffordshire Bull Terrier
6. Golden Retriever
7. West Highland White Terrier
8. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
9. Boxer
10. Rottweiler
11. Border Terrier
12. Yorkshire Terrier
13. Shih Tzu
14. Lhasa Apso
15. Doberman
16. Bull Terrier
17. Miniature Schnauzer
18. Weimaraner
19. Bichon Frise
20. Border Collie
Top 10 Dogs in Hawaii
1. Mixed Breed, Undetermined
2. Terrier Mix
3. Labrador Mix
4. Labrador Retriever
5. Golden Retriever
6. American Pit Bull Terrier
7. Pit Bull Mix
8. Shepherd Mix
9. Rottweiler
10. German Shepherd Dog
Top 20 Breeds in Finland
1. Finnish Hound
2. Norwegian Elkhound
3. German Shepherd Dog
4. Golden Retriever
5. Labrador Retriever
6. Karelian Bear Dog
7. Finnish Spitz
8. Lapphund
9. Jamthund
10. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
11. Miniature Schnauzer
12. Shetland Sheepdog
13. Rough Collie
14. Rottweiler
15. Beagle
16. Cocker Spaniel
17. Bichon Frise
18. Wirehaired Dachshund
19. Tibetan Spaniel
20. Berner Sennenhund
Top Breeds in Australia
1. German Shepherd Dog
2. Labrador Retriever
3. Golden Retriever
4. Staffordshire Terrier
5. Rottweiler
6. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
7. Boxer
8. Border Collie
9. Cocker Spaniel
10. Australian Cattle Dog
11. Doberman Pinscher
12. Jack Russell Terrier
13. Maltese
14. Dalmation
15. Toy Poodle
16. Siberian Husky
17. Beagle
18. Shetland Sheepdog
19. Shih Tzu
20. Silky Terrier
Critter Sitter's "Dog of the Day"
Newfoundland Dog
Country of Origin: Canada
History: Although the Newfoundland's history is cloudy, some believe the breed is descended from Great Pyrenees brought to Canada by fishermen. It was developed as a drafting and general working dog on the island of Newfoundland, off the coast of eastern Canada. The dogs were used to tow lines and nets and for water rescue.
Physical Description: The Newfoundland is a large, powerful dog with a broad head and muzzle, pendulous lips, and dark eyes. The ears are naturally drop and the long tail hangs when relaxed. The thick double coat is black, brown, or gray, with or without white markings. Landseer-type Newfoundlands are white with black markings.
Height: 26 to 28 inches
Weight: 100 to 150 pounds
Temperament: The Newfoundland is a gentle dog that is excellent with children. It loves the water and is known for attempting to rescue swimmers, whether or not they are in trouble.
Activity Level: Moderate
Best Owner: The Newfoundland does best in a rural or suburban home with an easy-going owner who is not fastidious.
Special Needs: Financial ability to meet giant-size needs, grooming, supervision around water so they don't inadvertently hurt swimmers, training
Possible Health Concerns: Skin allergies, hip and elbow dysplasia, hypothyroidism
Purina Pet Institute's Healthiest Places for Pets*
1. Okland, California
3. Portalnd, Oregon
4. Orange County, California
5. San Francisco, California
6. Washington, D.C.
7. Minneapolis, Minnesota
8. Columbus, Ohio
9. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
10. Salt Lake City, Utah
11. Seattle, Washington
12. Chicago, Illinois
13. Boston, Massachusetts
14. New York, New York
15. San Antonio, Texas
16. Hartford, Connecticutt
17. Los Angeles, California
18. Las Vegas, Nevada
19. Bergen/Passaic, New Jersey
20. Detroit, Michigan
21. Miami, Florida
22. Milwaukee, Wisconsin
23. Phoenix, Arizona
24. Newark, New Jersey
25. Atlanta, Georgia
26. Kansas City, Missouri
27. Sacramento, California
28. Cleveland, Ohio
29. Nashville, Tennessee
30. Buffalo, New York
31. Providence, Rhode Island
32. Houston, Texas
33. Tampa, Florida
34. San Diego, California
35. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
36. Fort Worth/Arlington, Texas**
37. Nassau/Suffolk, New York**
38. San Jose, California
39. Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
40. Dallas, Texas
41. New Orleans, Louisiana
42. Baltimore, Maryland
43. St. Louis, Missouri
44. Greensboro, North Carolina
45. Cincinatti, Ohio
46. Indianapolis, Indiana
47. Orlando, Florida
48. Charlotte, North Carolina
49. Norfolk, Virginia
50. Riverside, California
* Rankings were based on 30 different criteria. Some of the criteria were obesity rates in pets, owner commitment to preventive care, rabies legislation, number of pets spayed and neutered, and veterinarian to pet ratios.
** These are separate cities or counties in close proximity to each other and considered as one area for this ranking.
3. Portalnd, Oregon
4. Orange County, California
5. San Francisco, California
6. Washington, D.C.
7. Minneapolis, Minnesota
8. Columbus, Ohio
9. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
10. Salt Lake City, Utah
11. Seattle, Washington
12. Chicago, Illinois
13. Boston, Massachusetts
14. New York, New York
15. San Antonio, Texas
16. Hartford, Connecticutt
17. Los Angeles, California
18. Las Vegas, Nevada
19. Bergen/Passaic, New Jersey
20. Detroit, Michigan
21. Miami, Florida
22. Milwaukee, Wisconsin
23. Phoenix, Arizona
24. Newark, New Jersey
25. Atlanta, Georgia
26. Kansas City, Missouri
27. Sacramento, California
28. Cleveland, Ohio
29. Nashville, Tennessee
30. Buffalo, New York
31. Providence, Rhode Island
32. Houston, Texas
33. Tampa, Florida
34. San Diego, California
35. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
36. Fort Worth/Arlington, Texas**
37. Nassau/Suffolk, New York**
38. San Jose, California
39. Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
40. Dallas, Texas
41. New Orleans, Louisiana
42. Baltimore, Maryland
43. St. Louis, Missouri
44. Greensboro, North Carolina
45. Cincinatti, Ohio
46. Indianapolis, Indiana
47. Orlando, Florida
48. Charlotte, North Carolina
49. Norfolk, Virginia
50. Riverside, California
* Rankings were based on 30 different criteria. Some of the criteria were obesity rates in pets, owner commitment to preventive care, rabies legislation, number of pets spayed and neutered, and veterinarian to pet ratios.
** These are separate cities or counties in close proximity to each other and considered as one area for this ranking.
Signs of Cancer
~ Unusual swellings that continue to grow, especially in the lymph nodes
~ Sores that don't heal
~ Bleeding or other discharge from the mouth, nose, urinary tract, vagina, or rectum
~ Bad odor
~ Difficulty eating or swallowing
~ Difficulty breathing
~ Difficulty urinating or defecating
~ Lack of energy
~ Unexplained weight loss
~ Persistent lameness or stiffness
~ Lumps in the breast area
~ Abnormality or difference in size of testicles
~ Sores that don't heal
~ Bleeding or other discharge from the mouth, nose, urinary tract, vagina, or rectum
~ Bad odor
~ Difficulty eating or swallowing
~ Difficulty breathing
~ Difficulty urinating or defecating
~ Lack of energy
~ Unexplained weight loss
~ Persistent lameness or stiffness
~ Lumps in the breast area
~ Abnormality or difference in size of testicles
Vaccination Timeline
The following are general vaccination recommendations for adult dogs from the American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Task Force. However, the best vaccination schedule for your dog should be based on lifestyle and area of the country; talk to your dog's veterinarian.
~ Bordatella (bacterial illness commonly called kennel cough): optional; but recommended annually or more often for dogs at risk for infection
~ Borrelia burgdoferi (Lyme disease): optional, but recommended annually prior to start of tick season for dogs in high exposure areas
~ Canine adenovirus-2 (virus seen in combination with other agents causing upper respiratory infection): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years; also guards against canine adenovirus-1
~ Canine distempter (severe multisystemic viral disease): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Canine parvovirus (virus seen mostly in puppies that attacks the lining of the digestive system): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Leptospirosis (bacteria causing acute infection that can lead to kidney or liver disease): optional but can revaccinate every six months in high-risk situations, discontinuing booster schedule when exposure ceases.
~ Parainfluenza (viral disease, but less severe than distempter; also a type of kennel cough): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Rabies (virus affecting th brain and spinal cord): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years depending on state mandates
~ Bordatella (bacterial illness commonly called kennel cough): optional; but recommended annually or more often for dogs at risk for infection
~ Borrelia burgdoferi (Lyme disease): optional, but recommended annually prior to start of tick season for dogs in high exposure areas
~ Canine adenovirus-2 (virus seen in combination with other agents causing upper respiratory infection): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years; also guards against canine adenovirus-1
~ Canine distempter (severe multisystemic viral disease): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Canine parvovirus (virus seen mostly in puppies that attacks the lining of the digestive system): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Leptospirosis (bacteria causing acute infection that can lead to kidney or liver disease): optional but can revaccinate every six months in high-risk situations, discontinuing booster schedule when exposure ceases.
~ Parainfluenza (viral disease, but less severe than distempter; also a type of kennel cough): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years
~ Rabies (virus affecting th brain and spinal cord): booster at one year, revaccinate every three years depending on state mandates
Body Language at a Glance
To help you interpret this all-body communication, here's a brief glossary of basic dog gestures and posture.
Head
Head high: self-confident and interested in what he sees, hears and smells
Head high, neck arched: confident; displaying superior rank over another dog
Head high, tilted to side: interested and curious
Head and neck horizontal, body stiff, slight crouch, leaning forward: ready to escape; may snap or bite if cornered
Head horizontal or lower than horizontal, turned to one side, cheek turned upward: showing the desire to appease
Head horizontal or lower than horizontal, body curved so head and tail face same direction: cornered, fearful, and feeling self-protective. The dog is likely to snap or bite if approached
Head drooped, nose down or tucked toward chest, eyes averted, slight crouch: lacking confidence, showing submissive difference to a higher-ranking individual
Ears
Lifted, openings facing forward: strong interest
Lifted only partway, openings forward: interested but not yet eager to approach
Lifted halfway, openings sideways: interested but worried
Lowered, openings down or turned backward: worry, desire to escape
Lowered, plastered to sides of head: alarm or fear. The dog desires to escape but may be afraid to move; may snap or bit if approached when cornered
Eyes
Hard, intent stare that does not break away: dominant, may be predatory or aggressive
Eyes averted: submissive, may be fearful
Eyes that move toward and away from a person or animal: fearful or anxious
Body Posture
Skulking posture, dog stays close to the ground: submissive, fearful, may be fear-aggressive
Standing tall, stiff, rising up on paws, leaning forward: confident, curious, and excited but may be aggressive or predatory
Bows with front legs extended, head down, and rump in the air: playful and friendly, initiating interaction
On back, belly exposed: submissive, may be fearful
Tail
Above horizontal
Tail high, stiff, and still: assessing the situation for danger; ready for conflict
High and wagging stiffly like a metronome: displaying dominance and willingness for combat
High and wagging stiffly in a short arc: willing to interact in a friendly manner with a dog of similar rank if the other dog doesn't start combat, indicating possible sexual interest
Waving gently in a wide arc: friendly, interested, and enthusiastic
Horizontal
Tail high, stiff, straight out behind dog: interested, assessing the situation, and will likely follow or give chase if the object of interest retreats or flees
Tail still: interested but not yet ready to move forward
Tail horizontal with tip drooping: undecided whether to approach or retreat
Below horizontal
Wagging gently: friendly but lacking confidence
Tucked and wagging: lacking confidence and rank but is not combative; he will allow a slow approach but may panic and flee if rushed
Tucked and still: fearful, will retreat if approached and may bite if cornered
Tail tucked tightly, dog lying on side or back, possibly also urinating: showing full submissive to a higher-ranking individual
Head
Head high: self-confident and interested in what he sees, hears and smells
Head high, neck arched: confident; displaying superior rank over another dog
Head high, tilted to side: interested and curious
Head and neck horizontal, body stiff, slight crouch, leaning forward: ready to escape; may snap or bite if cornered
Head horizontal or lower than horizontal, turned to one side, cheek turned upward: showing the desire to appease
Head horizontal or lower than horizontal, body curved so head and tail face same direction: cornered, fearful, and feeling self-protective. The dog is likely to snap or bite if approached
Head drooped, nose down or tucked toward chest, eyes averted, slight crouch: lacking confidence, showing submissive difference to a higher-ranking individual
Ears
Lifted, openings facing forward: strong interest
Lifted only partway, openings forward: interested but not yet eager to approach
Lifted halfway, openings sideways: interested but worried
Lowered, openings down or turned backward: worry, desire to escape
Lowered, plastered to sides of head: alarm or fear. The dog desires to escape but may be afraid to move; may snap or bit if approached when cornered
Eyes
Hard, intent stare that does not break away: dominant, may be predatory or aggressive
Eyes averted: submissive, may be fearful
Eyes that move toward and away from a person or animal: fearful or anxious
Body Posture
Skulking posture, dog stays close to the ground: submissive, fearful, may be fear-aggressive
Standing tall, stiff, rising up on paws, leaning forward: confident, curious, and excited but may be aggressive or predatory
Bows with front legs extended, head down, and rump in the air: playful and friendly, initiating interaction
On back, belly exposed: submissive, may be fearful
Tail
Above horizontal
Tail high, stiff, and still: assessing the situation for danger; ready for conflict
High and wagging stiffly like a metronome: displaying dominance and willingness for combat
High and wagging stiffly in a short arc: willing to interact in a friendly manner with a dog of similar rank if the other dog doesn't start combat, indicating possible sexual interest
Waving gently in a wide arc: friendly, interested, and enthusiastic
Horizontal
Tail high, stiff, straight out behind dog: interested, assessing the situation, and will likely follow or give chase if the object of interest retreats or flees
Tail still: interested but not yet ready to move forward
Tail horizontal with tip drooping: undecided whether to approach or retreat
Below horizontal
Wagging gently: friendly but lacking confidence
Tucked and wagging: lacking confidence and rank but is not combative; he will allow a slow approach but may panic and flee if rushed
Tucked and still: fearful, will retreat if approached and may bite if cornered
Tail tucked tightly, dog lying on side or back, possibly also urinating: showing full submissive to a higher-ranking individual
Finding a Trainer
It's important to find the right trainer for your dog. For recommendations, talk to your veterinarian, groomer, pet sitter, boarding facility, breed club, local humane organization, or dog-owning friends, neighbors, or family members.
~ Once you've identified possible trainers in your area, evaluate their qualifications and personalities carefully. Different dogs respond to different types of training. If your dog is fearful and shy, he needs a trainer who can put him at ease; if he tends to be dominant and stubborn, he needs a trainer who can be positive but firm.
~ Call the trainers on your list and ask about training background, including breeds of dogs and types of behaviors they specialize in, years of experience, and professional training. Be sure the trainer practices humane training techniques that use positive reinforcement to encourage appropriate behavior. Avoid trainers who use harsh methods such as yelling, shaking the scruff, or choking.
~ Other things to consider are whether the trainer is affiliated with reputable associations and training clubs such as the Asociation of Pet Dog Trainers, and whether she keeps up-to-date in the field by attending training and animal behavior courses, conferences, and workshops.
~ As you talk to a trainer, try to gauge her personality and philosphy about dogs. Does she have a positive attitude and a sense of humor that will help make training fun for you and your dog? Does the trainer appear to have strong communication skills to make learning easier and more enjoyable? Does the trainer convey a respect for dogs? Do you get a good gut feeling when talking to her? If not, move on to the nextr trainer on your list.
~ If you are considering group lessons, observe a class and the trainer at work efore making the commitment to join. Watch to see how she interacts with dogs and handlers. Is she fun, upbeat, and positive? Do the dogs and handlers seem engaged and responsive? If the answer is yes, this might be a good class for you and your dog.
~ Once you've identified possible trainers in your area, evaluate their qualifications and personalities carefully. Different dogs respond to different types of training. If your dog is fearful and shy, he needs a trainer who can put him at ease; if he tends to be dominant and stubborn, he needs a trainer who can be positive but firm.
~ Call the trainers on your list and ask about training background, including breeds of dogs and types of behaviors they specialize in, years of experience, and professional training. Be sure the trainer practices humane training techniques that use positive reinforcement to encourage appropriate behavior. Avoid trainers who use harsh methods such as yelling, shaking the scruff, or choking.
~ Other things to consider are whether the trainer is affiliated with reputable associations and training clubs such as the Asociation of Pet Dog Trainers, and whether she keeps up-to-date in the field by attending training and animal behavior courses, conferences, and workshops.
~ As you talk to a trainer, try to gauge her personality and philosphy about dogs. Does she have a positive attitude and a sense of humor that will help make training fun for you and your dog? Does the trainer appear to have strong communication skills to make learning easier and more enjoyable? Does the trainer convey a respect for dogs? Do you get a good gut feeling when talking to her? If not, move on to the nextr trainer on your list.
~ If you are considering group lessons, observe a class and the trainer at work efore making the commitment to join. Watch to see how she interacts with dogs and handlers. Is she fun, upbeat, and positive? Do the dogs and handlers seem engaged and responsive? If the answer is yes, this might be a good class for you and your dog.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Dog Rules
Dog Rules
1. The dog is not allowed in the house.
2. Okay, the dog is allowed in the house, but only in certain rooms.
3. The dog is allowed in all rooms, but has to stay off the furniture.
4. The dog can get on the old furniture only.
5. Fine, the dog is allowed on all the furniture, but is not allowed to sleep with the humans on the bed.
6. Okay, the dog is allowed on the bed, but only by invitation.
7. The dog can sleep on the bed whenever he wants, but not under the covers.
8. The dog can sleep under the covers by invitation only
9. The dog can sleep under the covers every night.
Doggy Dictionary Joke
Doggie Dictionary
LEASH:
A strap which attaches to your collar, enabling you to lead your person
where you want him/her to go.
DOG BED:
Any soft, clean surface, such as the white bedspread in the guest room or
the newly upholstered couch in the living room.
DROOL:
Is what you do when your persons have food and you don't. To do this
properly you must sit as close as you can and look sad and let the drool
fall to the floor, or better yet, on their laps.
SNIFF:
A social custom to use when you greet other dogs. Place your nose as close as you can to the other dog's rear end and inhale deeply, repeat several times, or until your person makes you stop.
GARBAGE CAN:
A container which your neighbors put out once a week to test your ingenuity. You must stand on your hind legs and try to push the lid off with your nose. If you do it right you are rewarded with margarine wrappers to shred, beef bones to consume and moldy crusts of bread.
BICYCLES:
Two-wheeled exercise machines, invented for dogs to control body fat. To
get maximum aerobic benefit, you must hide behind a bush and dash out, bark loudly and run alongside for a few yards; the person then swerves and falls into the bushes, and you prance away.
DEAFNESS:
This is a malady which affects dogs when their person want them in and they want to stay out. Symptoms include staring blankly at the person, then running in the opposite direction, or lying down.
THUNDER:
This is a signal that the world is coming to an end. Humans remain
amazingly calm during thunderstorms, so it is necessary to warn them of the danger by trembling uncontrollably, panting, rolling your eyes wildly, and following at their heels.
WASTEBASKET:
This is a dog toy filled with paper, envelopes, and old candy wrapper. When you get bored, turn over the basket and strew the papers all over the house
until your owner comes home.
SOFAS:
Are to dogs like napkins are to people. After eating it is polite to run up
and down the front of the sofa and wipe your whiskers clean.
BATH:
This is a process by which the humans drench the floor, walls and
themselves. You can help by shaking vigorously and frequently.
LEAN:
Every good dog’s response to the command "sit!", especially if your person
is dressed for an evening out. Incredibly effective before black-tie
events.
BUMP:
The best way to get your human's attention when they are drinking a fresh
cup of coffee or tea.
GOOSE BUMP:
A maneuver to use as a last resort when the Regular Bump doesn't get the
attention you require... especially effective when combined with The Sniff.
See above.
LOVE:
Is a feeling of intense affection, given freely and without restriction.
The best way you can show your love is to wag your tail. If you're lucky, a
human will love you in return.
Top 10 Reasons Why it's Great to be a Dog
Top 10 Reasons Why It's Great To Be A Dog....
1. If it itches, you can reach it. And no matter where it itches, no one
will be offended if you scratch it in public.
2. No one notices if you have hair growing in weird places as you get older.
3. Personal hygiene is a blast: No one expects you to take a bath every day,
and you don't even have to comb your own hair.
4. Having a wet nose is considered a sign of good health.
5. No one thinks less of you for passing gas. Some people might actually
think you're cute.
6. Who needs a big home entertainment system? A bone or an old shoe can
entertain you for hours.
7. You can spend hours just smelling stuff.
8. No one ever expects you to pay for lunch or dinner. You never have to
worry about table manners, and if you gain weight, it's someone else's fault.
9. It doesn't take much to make you happy. You're always excited to see the
same old people. All they have to do is leave the room for five minutes and
come back.
Dogs vs Cats (Joke)
What is a Cat?
1. Cats do what they want.
2. They rarely listen to you.
3. They are totally unpredictable.
4. When you want to play, they want to be alone.
5. When you want to be alone, they want to play.
6. They expect you to cater to their every whim.
7 They are moody.
8. They leave hair everywhere.
CONCLUSION: They are tiny little women in fur coats.
What is a Dog?
1. Dog's spend all day sprawled on the most comfortable piece of furniture in the house.
2. They can hear a package of food opening half a block away, but don't hear you when you're in the same room.
3. They can look dumb and lovable all at the same time.
4. They growl when they are not happy.
5. When you want to play, they want to play.
6. When you want to be alone, they want to play.
7. They leave their toys everywhere.
8. They do disgusting things with their mouths and then try to give you a kiss.
9. They go right for the crotch as soon as they meet you.
A Dog Named "Sex" Joke
A Dog Named Sex
Everybody who has a dog calls him "Rover" or "Roy." I call mine "Sex." He's a great pal but he has caused me a great deal of embarrassment.
When I went to the city hall to renew his dog license, I told the clerk I would like a license for Sex. He said, "I'd like one too." Then I said, "But this is a dog." He said he didn't care what she looked like. Then I said, "You don't understand, I've had Sex since I was 9 years old." He winked and said, "You must have been quite a kid."
When I got married and went on my honeymoon, I took the dog with me. I told the motel clerk that I wanted a room for my wife and me and a special room for sex.
He said, "You don't need a special room. As long as you pay your bill we don't care what you do." I said, "Look, you don't understand, Sex keeps me awake at night." The clerk said, "Funny--I have the same problem."
One day I entered Sex in a contest, but before the competition began the dog ran away. Another contestant asked me why I was just standing there, looking disappointed. I told him I had planned to have Sex in the contest. He told me I should have sold tickets. "But you don't understand," I said, "I had hoped to have Sex on TV." He said, "Now that cable is all over the place it's no big deal anymore."
When my wife and I seperated, we went to court to fight for custody of the dog. I said, "Your Honor, I had sex before I was married." The judge said, "The courtroom isn't a confessional. Stick to the case, please." Then I told him that after I was married, Sex left me. He said, "Me, too."
Friday, July 3, 2009
Introducing Your Dog to the New Baby
Preparing your dog to accept your new baby starts well before the baby is born. First, take your dog to the veterinarian for a routine health exam and make sure your dog's vaccinations are up to date. Talk to your veterinarian about any concerns you may have about introducing your dog and baby. If your dog isn't already neutered or spayed, do it now to help reduce the risk of aggressive behavior. If your dog has any issues with fear, anxiety, or other behavioral problems that could cause aggression, consult a trainer or animal behaviorist for assistance prior to the baby's arrival. Train your dog not to jump up on you or others and to remain calmly on the floor beside you.
Expose your dog to babies and the smells and sounds that accompany them. Ask friends with babies and young children to visit, and let your dog spend carefully supervised time with them. Rub baby lotion or other baby products onto your skin so your dog becomes used to the new smells. Play recorded lullabies and sing the songs that you'll soon share with your infant. Say the baby's name when you talk to your dog so he becomes familiar with it. Buy a baby doll that cries so your dog can get used to that sound.
Once the baby is home, much of your time will be devoted to caring for her. A sudden, drastic reduction in the amount of time you spend with your dog can cause him to feel stressed and resentful of the new intruder. So begin to reduce the amount of time you spend with your dog before your baby is born. If the expectant mom is the primary caregiver and the person the dog is most bonded to, another family member should take over that role before the baby is born.
After the baby is born, introduce her to the dog slowly. Bring a baby blanket or an item of clothing home from the hospital for your dog to smell before the baby arrives. Upon arriving home, the new mother should greet the dog without the baby, being warm, but quiet and calm. Following the greetings, bring your dog with you to sit next to the baby and reward him with treats for good behavior. Never force your dog to get ear the baby and always supervise their interactions closely. Do not exclude your dog from your family now that the baby is home. Keep your routine as regular as possible and be sure to play with and exercise your dog each day. Teach your dog that the baby is a positive addition to the household and with the baby comes treats, walks, and playtime in the park. When your dog acts in an appropriate manner around the baby, reward him with a treat.
Keep your dog and baby safe by setting clear boundaries. Gate the baby's bedroom door so that your dog cannot enter that room. Keep the baby's toys and other possessions away from your dog and don't let the baby play with the dog's toys. Once your baby starts crawling, keep food bowls in an area inaccessible to your baby.
Expose your dog to babies and the smells and sounds that accompany them. Ask friends with babies and young children to visit, and let your dog spend carefully supervised time with them. Rub baby lotion or other baby products onto your skin so your dog becomes used to the new smells. Play recorded lullabies and sing the songs that you'll soon share with your infant. Say the baby's name when you talk to your dog so he becomes familiar with it. Buy a baby doll that cries so your dog can get used to that sound.
Once the baby is home, much of your time will be devoted to caring for her. A sudden, drastic reduction in the amount of time you spend with your dog can cause him to feel stressed and resentful of the new intruder. So begin to reduce the amount of time you spend with your dog before your baby is born. If the expectant mom is the primary caregiver and the person the dog is most bonded to, another family member should take over that role before the baby is born.
After the baby is born, introduce her to the dog slowly. Bring a baby blanket or an item of clothing home from the hospital for your dog to smell before the baby arrives. Upon arriving home, the new mother should greet the dog without the baby, being warm, but quiet and calm. Following the greetings, bring your dog with you to sit next to the baby and reward him with treats for good behavior. Never force your dog to get ear the baby and always supervise their interactions closely. Do not exclude your dog from your family now that the baby is home. Keep your routine as regular as possible and be sure to play with and exercise your dog each day. Teach your dog that the baby is a positive addition to the household and with the baby comes treats, walks, and playtime in the park. When your dog acts in an appropriate manner around the baby, reward him with a treat.
Keep your dog and baby safe by setting clear boundaries. Gate the baby's bedroom door so that your dog cannot enter that room. Keep the baby's toys and other possessions away from your dog and don't let the baby play with the dog's toys. Once your baby starts crawling, keep food bowls in an area inaccessible to your baby.
Questions to Ask Pet Sitters and Dog Walkers
~ Are you accredited?
~ Are you licensed and bonded?
~ What is your experience/training?
~ Will you provide references?
~ Have you worked with (agressive, medically fragile, senior) dogs before? How do you adjust your services?
~ What is your pay scale?
~ What does pet sitting/dog walking involve -- playing, walking, and feeding?
~ Will you visit the dog at a regular time each day -- how much leeway is there?
~ Will you administer medicines; if so, is there a charge?
~ Do you have transportation to take the dog for veterinary care if necessary?
~ What other services will you provide: taking in mail and watering?
~ How much do you charge for additional services?
~ Are you willing to spend the night in the home?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in your home overnight?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in our home for extended stays or weekends?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in your home for extended stays or weekends?
~ Are you available for emergencies; if so, what is the charge?
~ Are you licensed and bonded?
~ What is your experience/training?
~ Will you provide references?
~ Have you worked with (agressive, medically fragile, senior) dogs before? How do you adjust your services?
~ What is your pay scale?
~ What does pet sitting/dog walking involve -- playing, walking, and feeding?
~ Will you visit the dog at a regular time each day -- how much leeway is there?
~ Will you administer medicines; if so, is there a charge?
~ Do you have transportation to take the dog for veterinary care if necessary?
~ What other services will you provide: taking in mail and watering?
~ How much do you charge for additional services?
~ Are you willing to spend the night in the home?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in your home overnight?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in our home for extended stays or weekends?
~ Are you willing to pet sit in your home for extended stays or weekends?
~ Are you available for emergencies; if so, what is the charge?
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Biscuit, the Wonder Dog Joke
Got time? No problem...
Yesterday I was at my local Sam's Club buying a large bag of Purina dog chow for my loyal pet, Biscuit, the Wonder Dog and was in the checkout line when a woman behind me asked if I had a dog.
What did she think I had; an elephant? So since I'm retired and have little to do, on impulse I told her that no, I didn't have a dog, I was starting the Purina Diet again. I added that I probably shouldn't, because I ended up in the hospital last time, but that I'd lost 50 pounds before I awakened in an intensive care ward with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IVs in both arms.
I told her that it was essentially a perfect diet and that the way that it works is to load your pants pockets with Purina nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry. The food is nutritionally complete so it works well and I was going to try it again (I have to mention here that practically everyone in line was now enthralled with my story.) Horrified, she asked if I ended up in intensive care because the dog food poisoned me. I told her no, I stepped off a curb to sniff an Irish Setter's butt and a car hit us both.
I thought the guy behind her was going to have a heart attack he was laughing so hard.
Sam's Club won't let me shop there anymore.
Better watch what you ask retired people.. They have all the time in the world to think of crazy things to say.
Yesterday I was at my local Sam's Club buying a large bag of Purina dog chow for my loyal pet, Biscuit, the Wonder Dog and was in the checkout line when a woman behind me asked if I had a dog.
What did she think I had; an elephant? So since I'm retired and have little to do, on impulse I told her that no, I didn't have a dog, I was starting the Purina Diet again. I added that I probably shouldn't, because I ended up in the hospital last time, but that I'd lost 50 pounds before I awakened in an intensive care ward with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IVs in both arms.
I told her that it was essentially a perfect diet and that the way that it works is to load your pants pockets with Purina nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry. The food is nutritionally complete so it works well and I was going to try it again (I have to mention here that practically everyone in line was now enthralled with my story.) Horrified, she asked if I ended up in intensive care because the dog food poisoned me. I told her no, I stepped off a curb to sniff an Irish Setter's butt and a car hit us both.
I thought the guy behind her was going to have a heart attack he was laughing so hard.
Sam's Club won't let me shop there anymore.
Better watch what you ask retired people.. They have all the time in the world to think of crazy things to say.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Fun Fact # 1:
Dogs are good for our health. In a 1990 Delta Society study of 100 senior citizens, even the most stressed dog owners visited their doctors 21 percent fewer times than seniors without dogs.
Fun Fact #2:
Dog booties can protect canine feet on long hikes and are especially useful when hiking over rought terrain. They also help protect a paw that has been injured. Booties come in a variety of materials, including leather, neoprene, polar fleece, and nylon.
Fun Fact #3:
There are two Saint Bernards from Japan who ski each day with their owners. The dogs, who began skiing as puppies, wear specially made shoes that clamp onto skis.
Fun Fact #4:
A short name with two syllables is the best choice for a new puppy. It is easy to say and two syllable names won't be confused with one syllable commands, such as sit, stay, or no.
Fun Fact #5:
Sixty-eight percent of dog owners believe the greatest benefit is companionship. According to the Purina State of the American Pet Survey from 2000, this companionship is so important that 45 percent of dog owners have taken their dog with them on vacations.
Dogs are good for our health. In a 1990 Delta Society study of 100 senior citizens, even the most stressed dog owners visited their doctors 21 percent fewer times than seniors without dogs.
Fun Fact #2:
Dog booties can protect canine feet on long hikes and are especially useful when hiking over rought terrain. They also help protect a paw that has been injured. Booties come in a variety of materials, including leather, neoprene, polar fleece, and nylon.
Fun Fact #3:
There are two Saint Bernards from Japan who ski each day with their owners. The dogs, who began skiing as puppies, wear specially made shoes that clamp onto skis.
Fun Fact #4:
A short name with two syllables is the best choice for a new puppy. It is easy to say and two syllable names won't be confused with one syllable commands, such as sit, stay, or no.
Fun Fact #5:
Sixty-eight percent of dog owners believe the greatest benefit is companionship. According to the Purina State of the American Pet Survey from 2000, this companionship is so important that 45 percent of dog owners have taken their dog with them on vacations.
Shopping Checklist For a New Dog
Prepare for your new dog by purchasing supplies ahead of time. Here is a checklist of recommended items:
~ Dog food: Choose a high-quality food that is appropriate for your new dog's age and size. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations.
~ Food and water bowls: Food and water bowls should be heavy so that they can't be easily tipped over. Stainless steel and ceramic bowls are best, although stainless steel bowls become hot if left in the sun. Plastic bowls can harbor bacteria. Raised bowls are ideal for larger dogs who have trouble stooping.
~ Toys: Busy a selection of toys. High-quality rawhide and nylon bones provide dogs relief from teething. Plush toys and interactive toys like balls or Kongs keep dogs busy.
~ Grooming tools: A brush, flea comb, shampoo, and nail clippers are grooming regimen basics.
~ Toothbrush and toothpaste: It is important to keep your dog's teeth clean and healthy. Brushes and paste especially for dogs can be purchased at the pet supply store or from your veterinarian.
~ Crate: Choose a crate large enough so your dog can stand up and turn around in it comfortably but not so large that he can get away from any mess he makes. Some crates can be purchased with dividers that make the crate temporarily smaller, which may be a good choice for puppies. The crate will grow with them as they grow. A crate provides a comfortable spot in which to sleep and relax but is also an excellent tool for housetraining and keeping your dog safe when traveling. Cushion the floor with a blanket or fleece mat.
~ Bed: If your dog isn't sleeping in a crate, he'll need a comfortable dog bed.
~ Collar and leash: Purchase an adjustable nylon or flat leather collar and check its fit often, especially if you're adopting a quick-growing puppy. You should be able to fit two fingers under the collar but it should be tight enough that it won't slip over your dog's ears. Use a 4- to 6-foot leash for walks.
~ Identification tag: The ID tag should include your name, your dog's name, your address and your phone number. If the tag allows for only two lines, they should be your dog's name and your phone number.
~ First Aid Kit: A basic first aid kit helps you deal with minor emergencies.
~ Treats for training: Healthy soft treats positively influence a dog's learning experiences.
~ Baby gates: Use gates to block stairs or any area that is off-limits to your dog.
~ Dog food: Choose a high-quality food that is appropriate for your new dog's age and size. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations.
~ Food and water bowls: Food and water bowls should be heavy so that they can't be easily tipped over. Stainless steel and ceramic bowls are best, although stainless steel bowls become hot if left in the sun. Plastic bowls can harbor bacteria. Raised bowls are ideal for larger dogs who have trouble stooping.
~ Toys: Busy a selection of toys. High-quality rawhide and nylon bones provide dogs relief from teething. Plush toys and interactive toys like balls or Kongs keep dogs busy.
~ Grooming tools: A brush, flea comb, shampoo, and nail clippers are grooming regimen basics.
~ Toothbrush and toothpaste: It is important to keep your dog's teeth clean and healthy. Brushes and paste especially for dogs can be purchased at the pet supply store or from your veterinarian.
~ Crate: Choose a crate large enough so your dog can stand up and turn around in it comfortably but not so large that he can get away from any mess he makes. Some crates can be purchased with dividers that make the crate temporarily smaller, which may be a good choice for puppies. The crate will grow with them as they grow. A crate provides a comfortable spot in which to sleep and relax but is also an excellent tool for housetraining and keeping your dog safe when traveling. Cushion the floor with a blanket or fleece mat.
~ Bed: If your dog isn't sleeping in a crate, he'll need a comfortable dog bed.
~ Collar and leash: Purchase an adjustable nylon or flat leather collar and check its fit often, especially if you're adopting a quick-growing puppy. You should be able to fit two fingers under the collar but it should be tight enough that it won't slip over your dog's ears. Use a 4- to 6-foot leash for walks.
~ Identification tag: The ID tag should include your name, your dog's name, your address and your phone number. If the tag allows for only two lines, they should be your dog's name and your phone number.
~ First Aid Kit: A basic first aid kit helps you deal with minor emergencies.
~ Treats for training: Healthy soft treats positively influence a dog's learning experiences.
~ Baby gates: Use gates to block stairs or any area that is off-limits to your dog.
Choosing an Adult Dog With the Right Temperament
Understanding a dog's temperament helps determine how much training he may need. If you don't have the time, interest, patience or knowledge to work with a dog who is poorly socialized, suffers from separation anxiety, does not get along with children, or is nervous and excitable, it is not fair to the dog -- or to you -- to take him home. It is better for that dog to be adopted by someone who can put in the extra training effort and for you to select a dog who is a better fit for your lifestyle. To help determine a dog's temperament, try these tips:
~ Check the dog's sociability. If you want your dog to be your best pal and an integral part of your family, look for one who loves people. Ask to visit with the dog privately in a quiet area. If he is a people dog, he will solicit your attention by approaching you with tail wagging and licking or nudging you. He should also approach your child in a friendly manner. This is a good sign that he is at least tolerant of children.
~ Check the dog's tolerance of physical affection. To determine how much contact a dog will tolerate, pet him about a dozen times. Does he lean in for more or does he pull away?
~ Test the dog's excitability level. Jump around and make noise for several seconds. How excited does the dog get? How long does it take for him to calm down? If he gets excited, jumps on you, and takes a long time to settle down, he probably requires an owner with some patience who can give him extra attention. If he becomes aggressive or predatory, he requires a home where he can receive special training. If he gets excited and playful but calms down quickly, he could be an excellent choice for a family with young children.
~ Determine if the dog suffers from separation anxiety. Leave the dog alone for a few minutes. When you return, observe his behavior. If the dog seems out of breath, he may suffer from separation anxiety, which requires additional training.
~ Check the dog's response to new situations. Take the dog for a short walk and observe how he reacts to noise and traffic. Is he frightened or curious? Does he try to chase moving objects? Dogs who are fearful in new situations often need socialization and training or even medication to remain calm. Car, bicycle, or cat chasers are a danger to themselves and sometimes to others -- they can be killed by traffic or they can injure small animals. These dogs need special training, secure fencing, and a good leash and collar.
~ Check the dog's sociability. If you want your dog to be your best pal and an integral part of your family, look for one who loves people. Ask to visit with the dog privately in a quiet area. If he is a people dog, he will solicit your attention by approaching you with tail wagging and licking or nudging you. He should also approach your child in a friendly manner. This is a good sign that he is at least tolerant of children.
~ Check the dog's tolerance of physical affection. To determine how much contact a dog will tolerate, pet him about a dozen times. Does he lean in for more or does he pull away?
~ Test the dog's excitability level. Jump around and make noise for several seconds. How excited does the dog get? How long does it take for him to calm down? If he gets excited, jumps on you, and takes a long time to settle down, he probably requires an owner with some patience who can give him extra attention. If he becomes aggressive or predatory, he requires a home where he can receive special training. If he gets excited and playful but calms down quickly, he could be an excellent choice for a family with young children.
~ Determine if the dog suffers from separation anxiety. Leave the dog alone for a few minutes. When you return, observe his behavior. If the dog seems out of breath, he may suffer from separation anxiety, which requires additional training.
~ Check the dog's response to new situations. Take the dog for a short walk and observe how he reacts to noise and traffic. Is he frightened or curious? Does he try to chase moving objects? Dogs who are fearful in new situations often need socialization and training or even medication to remain calm. Car, bicycle, or cat chasers are a danger to themselves and sometimes to others -- they can be killed by traffic or they can injure small animals. These dogs need special training, secure fencing, and a good leash and collar.
Publisher's Weekly All-Time Best-Selling Children's Dog Books
1. The Poky Little Puppy, Janette Sebring Lowrey, 1942
2. Where the Red Fern Grows, Wilson Rawls, 1973
3. The Incredible Journey, Sheila Burnford, 1984
4. Fox in Socks, Dr. Seuss, 1965
5. Go, Dog, Go!, P.D. Eastman, 1961
6. Stone Fox, John Reynolds Gardner, 1983
7. Sounder, William H. Armstrong, 1972
8. Just Me and My Puppy, Mercer Mayer, 1985
9. 101 Dalmations, Dodie Smith, 1976
10. Clifford, the Big Red Dog, Norman Bridwell, 1985
11. Clifford the Small Red Puppy, Norman Bridwell, 1990
12. Shiloh, Phyllis Reynolds Naylor, 1992
13. Puppies are Like That, Jan Pfloog, 1975
14. The Werewolf of Fever Swamp, R.L. Stine, 1993
15. The Barking Ghost, R.L. Sine, 1995
2. Where the Red Fern Grows, Wilson Rawls, 1973
3. The Incredible Journey, Sheila Burnford, 1984
4. Fox in Socks, Dr. Seuss, 1965
5. Go, Dog, Go!, P.D. Eastman, 1961
6. Stone Fox, John Reynolds Gardner, 1983
7. Sounder, William H. Armstrong, 1972
8. Just Me and My Puppy, Mercer Mayer, 1985
9. 101 Dalmations, Dodie Smith, 1976
10. Clifford, the Big Red Dog, Norman Bridwell, 1985
11. Clifford the Small Red Puppy, Norman Bridwell, 1990
12. Shiloh, Phyllis Reynolds Naylor, 1992
13. Puppies are Like That, Jan Pfloog, 1975
14. The Werewolf of Fever Swamp, R.L. Stine, 1993
15. The Barking Ghost, R.L. Sine, 1995
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